Puffed rice

What is it?

You know that nice little crunch you get in your mouth as you're tucking into the first course at the latest, hottest restaurant? You don't? Well, imagine rice bubbles scattered through lush creaminess or tender meats, and that's what we're talking about. Puffed rice is nothing more than cooked rice, dehydrated and flash-fried, but it gives that all-important snap, crackle and pop that modern chefs - and diners - love.

Where is it?

Michael Ryan at Provenance in Beechworth (regional restaurant of the year in the current Age Good Food Guide) is serving sake-cured whiting with dashi jelly and seaweed on a sheet of puffed rice. "In this instance, I roll the soft, cooked rice into a sheet and crisp it to give a great texture to the dish," Ryan says.

Ben Shewry reveals his recipe for puffed rice in his new book, Origin, as part of his dramatic presentation of snow crab with freeze-dried coconut and horseradish powder, salmon roe, barberries, leek ash and verjuice granita. His tip? "The rice should be overcooked but not falling apart" before dehydrating and frying.

Why do I care?

You might not. This might just be a step too far towards cheffiness for you. Or you might love the idea of adding a lovely light crunch to sashimi and raw fish dishes, to Asian salads and even roasts and curries. You can layer the little crunch-balls into trifles, or use to garnish creamy custards and mousses.

Sourcing it

Provenance, 86 Ford Street, Beechworth, Melbourne, (03) 5728 1786
Attica, 74 Glen Eira Road, Ripponlea, Melbourne, (03) 9530 0111
Movida, 50 Holt Street, Surry Hills, Sydney, (02) 8964 7642
ARIA, 1 Macquarie Street, city, Sydney, (02) 9252 2555
Cara & Co, Level 4 Westfield Sydney, 188 Pitt Street, city, Sydney (02) 9226 9988.

Can I do it at home?

Indeed. It's one of the few new cheffy tricks that we can perform at home without the need for expensive, high-tech tools. And you can do it ahead of time, ready to impress friends and influence people with your instant garnish.

Tuna sashimi with puffed rice and wasabi cream

50g jasmine rice, well cooked and cooled

50g wild rice, well cooked and cooled

Oil for deep frying

2 tsp prepared wasabi paste

1 tsp lime or lemon juice

2 tbsp yoghurt or cream

Sea salt and black pepper

200g sashimi-grade tuna or salmon

8 slices sushi ginger

2 tbsp baby herbs or cress

1. To make the puffed rice, heat the oven to 80C. Scatter the cooked jasmine rice and wild rice in a single layer on a tray lined with baking paper, and bake for 1 hour or until crisp and dry.

2. Heat the oil in a heavy pan and fry the rice in small batches - it will puff up immediately. Drain well and store in an airtight container until needed.

3. Whisk the wasabi paste, lime juice, yoghurt or cream, sea salt and pepper together until smooth and adjust to your taste, thinning out with a dash of water if you like.

4. To serve, finely slice the fish and arrange on four chilled plates. Top with the sushi ginger, drizzle with the wasabi dressing, scatter with the mixed puffed rice and herbs or cress, and serve.

Serves 4 as a first course