Cavolo nero gratin

It's the foliage that is of particular interest to the cook. Not only does it keep its colour when cooked for prolonged periods, unlike spinach and silverbeet, it also keeps its flavour and texture. In fact, it seems to thrive and become tastier.

Cavolo nero relishes the cold and really comes into its own after the first frosts. Use it in winter soups, pies, curries, stuffing and braises. Choose leaves that are the length of a forearm, as they develop flavour with size.

Fill large saucepan with water and bring to boil. Strip leaves from cavolo nero, discarding stems. Simmer leaves in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain well, pushing residual water from leaves with the back of a ladle. Preheat oven to 200C. In a bowl combine breadcrumbs and the two cheeses. Place a pan over medium heat, add butter and oil and, when they begin to sizzle, add onion. Lightly fry for 3-4 minutes until transparent. Add garlic and saute for another minute. Coarsely chop cavolo and add to onions and garlic. Saute for 2 minutes, then add cream. Turn heat to high to evaporate liquid until there is just enough cream to coat the cavolo. Remove from pan and spoon mixture into a gratin dish or ovenproof frypan where the mixture will fit snugly and is 3-4cm deep. Spread breadcrumb mixture over top of gratin and bake in oven for 20 minutes until golden brown. Serve hot by itself or as an accompaniment to roast beef or pork.