Friselle

These hard-baked rusks are a staple in all alimentari in Puglia. Originally seen as a long-keeping bread to be softened by dipping it in water, they are now enjoyed as a crunchy snack or, as here, are briefly soaked, and filled with a variety of savoury fillings. I have reduced the time of the second baking to minimise the soaking needed, but if you are off for a mountain trek and need long-keeping fuel, by all means extend the time of the second baking. The bread needs to include some of the golden durum flour to be truly authentic. The method seems long, and it is, but I found it quite possible to fit in all the processes between doing other things at home. Alternatively each process can be left for many hours, even overnight. The method is closely based on that found in Nancy Jenkins' book, Flavors of Puglia.

Friselle
Photo: Marina Oliphant

Ingredients

  • For the biga (starter dough)
  • 1 1/2 cups warm water
  • 1 tsp dry yeast
  • 1 1/2 cups (225g) unbleached plain flour
  • First rise
  • To the biga dough, add:
  • 2 cups wholemeal flour
  • 1 cup durum flour
  • 1 cup warm water
  • Stir well. Cover, leave 3 hours or longer till well-risen
  • Second rise
  • To the first-rise dough, add:
  • 1 cup durum flour
  • 1 cup unbleached flour
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1 cup warm water

Method

For the biga (starter dough)

Sprinkle yeast over water. Leave till dissolved. Stir in flour. Mix well with a spoon. Cover and leave 2 hours (or longer).

First rise

To the biga dough, add: 2 cups wholemeal flour, 1 cup durum flour, 1 cup warm water. Stir well. Cover, leave 3 hours or longer till well-risen.

Second rise

To the first-rise dough, add: 1 cup durum flour, 1 cup unbleached flour, 2 tsp salt, 1 cup warm water. Stir well, knead and leave, covered, to double. At least 2 hours.

To shape

Divide dough into 4 pieces. Roll each piece into a long sausage shape. Divide each sausage into 4. Roll each piece into a thinner sausage and shape into a ring, pressing the edges together. Cover with a dry cloth and leave to prove for half an hour. Preheat oven to 230C. Place some ice cubes in a bowl of water. Dip each risen ring into the iced water and transfer quickly to a baking tray. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower heat to 180C for a further 30 minutes. When cool, split open, reduce oven to 120C and dry the breads for 30 minutes (or an hour if you want especially long-keeping rusks).

For the soaking bath

Dip each bread piece into the bath for 1-2 minutes until crumb is very soft but the roll itself still has shape and the base is still crusty. Fill with your favourite savoury mixture. Special note: I only dried out 3-4 of the bread rolls and froze the rest after the initial baking to be thawed and used as fresh bread later. This is an especially delicious bread recipe and the rolls have a great crust.

Makes 16

Cuisine:
Italian
Course:
Finger-food
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