Gnocchi with pigeon and porcini mushroom ragu

For the gnocchi

Boil the potatoes, whole and unpeeled, until soft. Drain and place on a tray for excess moisture to evaporate. Peel as soon as they are cool enough to handle. Pass through a mouli or potato ricer.To the potato, add the flour, salt, nutmeg and egg yolks and gently work together using your hands as you would a bread dough. The mixture should come together to form a smooth and soft dough that doesn't stick to your fingers - add some more flour if it feels sticky.

Cover gnocchi dough with a tea towel while you cut off a small amount and roll into a log shape the width of your fingers with some flour. Cut into 2cm-thick pieces.

Take each piece of gnocchi and roll it over the back of a fork to get grooves on one side and the little dip in the other (to "capture" the sauce). Or you can place an indentation in the middle of each gnocchi with your finger. Continue until you have used all the gnocchi dough.

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil then drop small batches of gnocchi into the pot. As soon as they rise to the surface they are cooked and can be taken out onto a platter. Drizzle with a little olive oil to stop them sticking together.

For the ragu

Using a heavy and wide pot, gently brown the deboned meat in the oil and butter and season with salt and pepper. Chop the onion, carrot and celery into small pieces and add to the pot. Cook for about 10-15 minutes on low heat until everything is soft and golden brown. Add the rosemary and garlic and cook a minute longer.

Add the wine, carcasses, salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and cook until the meat falls from the leg bones.

Remove from the heat, remove carcasses and place breast and leg meat on a chopping board, flake or chop the meat into small pieces and discard the bones. Return all the meat to the pot, add the mushrooms and their liquid and cook gently for another 10 minutes. Check seasoning. There should be just enough liquid to cover the ragu - add some more water or a little chicken stock if dry, or continue to reduce.

Add cooked gnocchi to the ragu. Finish with a daub of butter and a sprinkle of chopped parsley.