Poached loin of lamb

Heat oil in a small, heavy-based pan and thoroughly brown the pieces of lamb neck or shank and the quartered onion.

Transfer the browned pieces to a saucepan, tip off any fat and deglaze the pot with the white wine. Tip the deglazings into the saucepan and add the stock and the bouquet garni. Bring to boil, turn heat to very low, cover and simmer for two hours. Strain and return stock to the saucepan.

Half an hour before dinner, heat oven to 120C and place serving plates in the oven to warm.

Remove the meat from the refrigerator, rinse, dry and remove any visible fat or membrane. Bring the stock to simmering point. Drop in the meat and allow to return to simmering point. Drop in the trimmed vegetables; skim and adjust heat so there is no violent bubbling. A bubble should break the surface from time to time. Time meat for 8 minutes. Lift out with a slotted spoon and press with your finger. It should feel springy but not jelly-like. Transfer meat to a dish and put into the low oven to rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Remove vegetables, if tender, to the same warmed dish. Rapidly boil the stock to reduce by one-third.

For the sauce: In a clean saucepan, make a roux with the butter and flour. Gradually add the measured quantity of hot reduced stock, stirring all the time. Once the sauce has thickened, taste and adjust for salt and pepper.

Lightly beat egg yolks with cream in a small bowl. Add a ladle of hot sauce to the egg-yolk mixture, and then tip back into the sauce off the heat. Stir for half a minute and then add lemon juice. Stir in capers and chopped parsley and set aside until needed.

To serve

Carve lamb into thin slices and arrange with the vegetables onto very hot plates. Spoon a little sauce around the meat and serve the extra in a jug.