Ricotta gnocchi with tomato vinaigrette

The secret to making gnocchi is to work the dough lightly when pulling it together, barely mixing and certainly not kneading it like a bread or pasta dough. It should pull together but not tighten, remain pliable and barely holding. Three-quarters of the flour should be used at first, with the rest added as needed. The less flour used, the more light and fluffy they will be. You can leave out grooving them with a fork. The grooves are there to hold the sauce to the gnocchi, so it's not absolutely vital. There's acidic and sweet in the vinaigrette and I opt for a brown-in-the-frying-pan version. Toss the just-cooked gnocchi in one tablespoon of olive oil, thinly sliced fresh mushrooms and a handful of finely sliced radicchio, with two chopped garlic cloves, and then scatter with grated parmesan to serve. The gnocchi will brown and develop a nutty flavour.