Recipes from Milkbar Memories, by Jane Lawson

BEEF BURGER WITH 'THE LOT'

Makes 4

500g good-quality minced beef, with decent marbling

olive oil, for pan-frying

1 small onion, finely sliced

4 pineapple rings, either fresh or tinned in natural syrup (optional)

4 streaky bacon rashers, cut in half

4 small eggs

120g cheese (I like mild cheddar or edam for this burger), sliced 3-4 mm thick

4 hamburger buns, split in half

softened butter, for spreading

lettuce leaves or shreds

4 slices ripe tomato

4 slices cooked beetroot

Tomato or barbecue sauce, for drizzling

Divide the beef into four equal amounts. Lightly compact each into a ball, then flatten each ball between squares of baking paper until they are about 6mm thick and 13cm in diameter. They may seem large, but will shrink a little on cooking.

Heat a little oil in a large non-stick frying pan. Gently sauté the onion over medium-high heat for 10-12 minutes, or until dark golden. Remove from the pan and keep warm.

If using fresh pineapple slices, give each side a good flash over high heat in the same frying pan until they are hot through and a little charred on the edges. If using tinned pineapple, just quickly warm through on each side. Cover and keep warm.

Meanwhile put the bacon in another non-stick frying pan and cook over medium–high heat until it is as crisp as you like it, then remove from the pan and keep warm.

Cook the eggs in the bacon fat, over medium heat, until the whites are set and the yolks are still a little runny – or to your desired doneness. Remove to a warmed plate and keep warm.

Carefully wash out both frying pans. Heat your grill to high so it is ready and waiting for your buns.

Return the clean frying pans to a fairly high heat and brush liberally with oil. When the pans are hot, season the burger patties on one side with fine sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper and cook two patties, seasoned side down, in each pan for about 80 seconds, or until well browned. Season the tops of the patties and flip them over, then top with the cheese slices and cook for a further 70 seconds. Do be careful not to cook the patties longer, as the beef can very quickly dry out. This timing yields a nice, juicy, flavoursome patty.

While the patties are cooking, pop the cut side of your burger buns under the hot grill until very lightly toasted. Butter the buns and place the bottom halves on your work surface. Top each with a little lettuce, a slice of tomato, slice of beetroot, and pineapple, if using.

As soon as the burger patties are cooked, place them, cheese side up, on top of the pineapple. Divide the sautéed onion over the patties, then top with the bacon and the eggs. Give each a good squirt of tomato or barbecue sauce and top with the bun lids.

Double Crunch Hot Chips

Serves 4

4 large floury (roasting or chipping) potatoes, such as russet, king edward or coliban; they should weigh about 1kg all up

2 tablespoons sea salt

peanut or vegetable oil, for deep-frying; you can also use half oil and half lard or duck fat

fine sea salt, Roast chicken salt or Lemon, rosemary & garlic salt , for sprinkling

malt vinegar, to serve (optional)

Preheat the oven to 170C.

Peel the potatoes, then rinse. Using a large sharp knife, cut into thick, square chips, about 1.5cm wide, and as long as the length of each potato. You can trim off the rounded ends of the potatoes for a more uniform look.

Spread the chips out evenly in a large roasting tin. Stir the sea salt into 2 litres of boiling water until dissolved, then pour over the potatoes. Cover tightly with foil and bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes, or until very tender, but not breaking apart.

Using a slotted fish lifter or spatula, carefully transfer the chips-to-be in a single layer on to your work surface, or several baking trays that have been lined with clean, dry tea towels. Loosely drape some tea towels across the top to help the potatoes steam as you leave them to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for 2 hours, or until completely cold.

One-third fill a deep-fryer or large heavy-based saucepan with oil and heat to 140C, or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil turns golden brown in 45–50 seconds. Cook the chips in batches for 6–8 minutes, or until pale gold in colour.

Drain on paper towel, cool to room temperature, then refrigerate again for at least a couple of hours, or overnight – the chips must be completely cold. Allow your oil to cool in the pan, then cover if not using until the next day.

When ready to give the chips their final frying, heat the oil to 205C, or until a cube of bread dropped into the oil turns golden brown in 5 seconds.

In batches, add the chips. The temperature will drop to about 180C, so try to keep it consistently at this heat. Cook each batch for 4–5 minutes, or until deep gold and crunchy crisp. Drain on paper towel and sprinkle with your choice of salt. Serve with malt vinegar for traditionalists.