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Tuna tempter

Debbie Skelton

Worth the effort ... Tuna confit with pesto.
Worth the effort ... Tuna confit with pesto.Graham Tidy

Oblivious to the world around me, I've been absorbed in researching the do's and don'ts of feeding my insatiable rye sourdough bread starter. It's taken me many years to finally take up the challenge of bread baking using a wild sourdough starter, and I'm hooked on spelt, rye and wholemeal.

Growing a rye ''mother'' is no easy feat in colder climates. After mother sits in its jar inert for days, I decide it might appreciate some constant warmth. The spare bed with its electric blanket is just the place, with a perfect temperature of 25C on the low setting. With warnings to the rest of the family about mother's occupation of the bed, she snuggles between the sheets and soon starts to bubble away. Lift off has commenced, which is great, but so too has the cost of electricity, and it probably outweighs the price of buying a loaf. But what price do we put on our passions, not to mention a happy mother?

Food neglect sets in and the family are pleading for anything other than bread, so I am forced to dust the flour off my hands.

No doubt you've heard of confit duck, pork and even salmon. Confit tuna is the same concept - cooked very slowly to preserve the flavour of the fish. The method is a little time-consuming, but simple.

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Make the tuna at least a few hours in advance. The tuna is marinated in preheated olive oil, infused with the aromatics for about two hours to three hours, then cooked very slowly for a short time in its oil bath.

I make a coriander and basil pesto with a tangy cherry-tomato salsa to match the flavours of the tuna, giving it a fresh Spanish influence. If serving as a dinner-party entree, you could add cauliflower puree as a base. The muskiness of creamed cauliflower is a great match with the tuna.

As with most confit, there is little oil left from the tuna. This deliciously herbaceous oil from the tuna bath will give you a very flavoursome dressing to add to salads, or for flavouring pizzas, ideal for mild-weather lunches. Keep the flavoured oil in a sealed jar in the refrigerator during summer.

The oil and tuna are brought slowly to a temperature of 60C, then left for only a few minutes to cook. A thermometer is very useful for this recipe, as the temperature should not rise above 60C. If it does, the proteins may ooze from the tuna, covering it with a white film and it will dry out, losing its delicate flavour. You are looking for pink, satiny and elegant tuna meat.

Tomato salsa

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1/2 cup cherry tomatoes sliced into quarters

1/2 red capsicum, sliced thinly

1 tsp lemon zest

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp lemon juice

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pinch of cayenne pepper

pinch sea salt

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and mix to marinate. Allow to sit at room temperature to let the flavours develop.

Pesto

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves

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1/2 cup fresh coriander leaves

2 anchovies

zest of 1/4 lemon

1/4 cup of olive oil

1/4 cup of salted peanuts

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2 large cloves of garlic

1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

Place all the ingredients except the oil into a small food blender and process. Add the oil in a thin stream and pulse to emulsify. Add more oil for a thinner consistency.

Tuna confit with preserved lemon

3 cups good-quality olive oil, or more (to cover the tuna during cooking)

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2 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves, chopped

6 sprigs fresh thyme leaves, chopped

1 bay leaf

2 tbsp of sea salt

1 tsp black peppercorns, coarsely cracked

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1/2 a preserved lemon, discard flesh, thinly sliced

zest of 1 lemon

1 small white onion, sliced

3 garlic cloves, skinned and sliced

500g good quality tuna, one-inch thick steaks

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pesto, to serve

Combine the oil, herbs, salt, pepper, preserved lemon, zest, onion and garlic in a deep saucepan. Heat to 60C and cook for 20 minutes to infuse the aromatics into the oil. This will also increase the oil's shelf life. Leave to cool for about 30 minutes. The oil should be warm and slightly salty to taste.

Cut the tuna so it will fit snugly in one layer in a pan or heat-proof casserole dish. This will limit the amount of oil you will need. Pour the warmed oil and aromatics over the tuna, making sure the oil covers the fish. If it doesn't cover the tuna, add extra.

Put the pan or dish over medium to low heat. Slowly bring the oil to 60C again, testing with a cooking thermometer. Turn off the heat as soon as it reaches the temperature and remove the pot from the heat. Let the tuna cook slowly in the hot oil for about three minutes, then carefully remove with a slotted spoon. This will stop the cooking process. The tuna should still be pink in the middle, cooked to medium rare and tender to the touch. If the fish is not done to your liking, return it to the oil for a few minutes.

If keeping the tuna to use later, transfer it to a storage dish and let it cool. Let the oil cool separately and then strain the oil back over the fish. If the tuna isn't completely covered in oil, add more fresh olive oil to the storage dish. If not using right away, cover the container tightly and refrigerate. The tuna will keep, in oil and refrigerated, for up to two weeks.

Dress the tuna with pesto before slicing very thinly.

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