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Brewers take artistic licence with water, yeast, malt and hops

Daniel Lewis

Ale venue: Great Australian Beer Spectacular, Royal Exhibition Building.
Ale venue: Great Australian Beer Spectacular, Royal Exhibition Building.Supplied

The emergence of craft beer has seen a deserving spotlight fall on the creativity of modern brewers. While the four pillars of beer-making - water, yeast, malt and hops - remain intact, techniques have evolved, ingredients more daring.

Here are 20 intricately made, beautifully tasting beers to try this Good Beer Week… or any other time. Some are more elusive than others, but with specialty shops dotted across Melbourne - try Parkhill Cellars in North Melbourne, Purvis Beer in Richmond, or one of seven Blackhearts & Sparrows outlets - and chain stores lifting their game (there's also an app, "Now Tapped!", in which you can search for where certain beers are tapped), good beer has never been easier to find.

HOP HOG

Colourful drop: Checking out the craft beer The Local Taphouse.
Colourful drop: Checking out the craft beer The Local Taphouse. Jessica Shaver
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Feral Brewing Company (Baskerville, WA), feralbrewing.com.au

Why? Because the critics can't be wrong - well, not in this case. A perennial place-getter in GABS Hottest 100 Beers countdown, there isn't much left to say about this delicious India Pale Ale other than experience one for yourself.

Where? Widely available.

Word? "With its classic pine-needle and citrus aroma and full flavour, while still a relatively sessionable 5.8 per cent [ABV], it's easy to see why it's so popular." - Russell Griggs and Dan Langlands (Terminus Hotel).

PALE ALE

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Hawkers Beer (Reservoir, VIC), hawkers.beer/

Why? So named after endless hours on Sydney's streets "hawking" brewer Mazen Hajjar's Lebanese-imported 961 Beer. Hawkers' first 12 months have been impactful, their state-of-the-art brewery churning out finely tuned IPAs, saisons, pilsners - and this glorious American-style pale ale.

Where? Prosciutto Bros Craft Bar, Eltham.

Word? "In a beer world heaving with pale ales, you need something rather special to be heard above the noise. Brewer Jon Seltin has found the perfect balance of rich, clean malt and a fruity hoppy punch." - Peter Mitcham (beer commentator).

Raise a glass (or three) at Good Beer Week.
Raise a glass (or three) at Good Beer Week.Supplied
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FIXATION IPA

Fixation Brewing Company (Byron Bay, NSW), fixationbrewing.com.au

WHY? Good pedigree. Fixation Brewing is an IPA-only collaboration of Stone & Wood Brewery – whose Pacific Ale is the nation's most popular craft beer - and colourful Mountain Goat spruiker Tom Delmont. This fresh, pungent 6.4 per cent hop bomb sees them leap from the blocks.

WHERE? The Local Taphouse, St Kilda.

WORD? "Maybe the nicest, most balanced IPA around at the moment." - Mitcham.

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XPA (EXTRA PALE ALE)

Wolf of the Willows (Cheltenham, VIC), wolfofthewillows.com.au

Why? Because you needn't continue topping up multi-national brewery execs' nest eggs. This gypsy brewer is a shining example of what's going on at the other end of beer world. They do it all, from the brewing to the bottling to the marketing of their "ales of distinction".

Where? Bad Shepherd Brewing House, Cheltenham; Dan O'Connell Hotel, Carlton.

Word? "More than just a pale ale, not pretending to be an IPA, but a beautifully crafted example of enthusiastic restraint. Just enough hop character to add aroma and flavour but not so much that it becomes bitter for the sake of being bitter." - Mitcham.

DEATH BETWEEN THE TANKS

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Little Brewing Company (Port Macquarie, NSW), thelittlebrewingcompany.com.au

WHY? Who could go past a name like that? These meticulous Port Macquarie brewers have earned a loyal fan base through a range of consistently good beers. This 7.8 per cent double IPA is as adventurous as it sounds; a tropical explosion of bitterness and hops.

WHERE? Good bottle shops.

WORD? "One of Little Brewing's most ambitious beers; a harmonious balance of big bold flavours. A challenging, but worthwhile beer." - Luke Robertson (Ale of a Time).

IIPA

Pirate Life Brewing (Hindmarsh, SA), piratelife.com.au

Why? Pirate Life founders Jack Cameron and Jared "Red" Proudfoot tirelessly plied their trade in Scotland and in WA before transforming a huge shed in suburban Adelaide into their first brewery early last year. Their self-belief has captured the hearts (and tastebuds) of the beer-loving public - no more so than with this US-style hop monster.

Where? Most bottle shops; Freddie Wimpoles, St Kilda.

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Word? "More hops than you could wave a Jolly Roger at but still incredibly balanced and drinkable for an 8.8 per cent Imperial IPA." - Griggs/Langlands.

SPLICE OF HEAVEN

Moon Dog Craft Brewery (Abbotsford, VIC), moondogbrewing.com.au

Why? Moon Dog are one of Australia's most inventive brewers, with such awful-sounding, yet delicious numbers as a Grapefruit & Cucumber IPA in their catalogue. They've outdone themselves again with this "fruitified" IPA that pays homage to the Splice ice cream.

Where? Belgian Beer Cafe, Southbank.

Word? "An IPA base with big citrus hop notes, lactose is added to add the lightest touch of sweetness, with vanilla in there too, culminating in a unique creamy/citrus flavour combination." - Chris Menichelli, SlowBeer.

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BLACK IPA

Kooinda Brewery (Heidelberg West, VIC), www.kooinda.com.au

Why? Even non-beer nerds know the words "Black IPA" are a contradiction in terms. The secret is in the de-husked malt. Kooinda are true craftsmen, achieving perfect balance with this drop that combines the rich, roasty malt base of a porter and the fruity hop bitterness of an IPA.

Where? Beermash, Collingwood.

Word? "Riding the wave of Black IPA releases from a few years ago, this has seemingly outlived the trend and rightly so, it's one of the best." - Menichelli.


KOLSCH, 4 Pines Brewing (Manly, NSW), 4pinesbeer.com.au

Why? Because it's not all about IPAs. With this sessionable, German-style golden ale, 4 Pines have created the perfect conversion beer for long-time lager swillers.

Where? Eydie's, Brunswick East; Metropolitan Hotel, North Melbourne.

Word? "Based on the classic style of Kolsch, this is one of the most refreshing ales out there. Pale, light and very clean with hints of lemon, lime and subtle spice." - Griggs/Langlands.

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POWERSTANCE PILSNER

Temple Brewing (Brunswick East, VIC), templebrewing.com.au

Why? This Brunswick East outfit are making the right noises amid a clamour of emerging brewers. Head brewer Glenn Harrison has been roundly lauded for this celebratory recreation of the classic, German-style pilsner.

Where? Grosvenor Hotel, St Kilda East.

Word? "Pilsner, a bit like a lager on steroids, is a rare but welcome find in the ale-dominated world of craft beer. To find one that combines the sweet, bready malt and earthy, pine-needly hop spice note so perfectly is like happening upon an oasis in a beer desert." - Mitcham.

ESB (Extra Special Bitter)

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Hargreaves Hill Brewing (Yarra Glen, VIC), hargreaveshill.com.au

Why? Every beer list needs a classic. While Hargreaves Hill naturally don't have the profile or clout of, say, CUB, they are among Victoria's most revered microbreweries. Their ESB fits the classic English bitter mould: easy-drinking and rewarding in flavour.

Where? Great Northern Hotel, Carlton North; The Lincoln, Carlton.

Word? "Celebrates rich, biscuity malts as well as fresh passionfruit and citrus hop characters to create one of the most balanced beers in the market." - Griggs/Langlands.

TACO BEER

Two Birds Brewing (Spotswood, VIC), twobirdsbrewing.com.au

Why? The name alone makes the mouth water. Two Birds' core beers - there's also a Golden Ale, Sunset Ale and a "Bantam" IPA - are all excellent, but this refreshing, titillating witbier trumps them all. And, yes: it teams rather nicely with Mexican delicacies.

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Where? Most bottle shops, and Two Birds' Spotswood brewery is well worthy for a drink, feed and gander.

Word? "A corn and wheat base gives it a light palate weight, which is complemented by the addition of hops with delicate fruity characters; lots of fresh coriander and lime peel." - Griggs/Langlands.

RAUCHBIER

Napoleone Brewers (Coldstream, VIC), napoleone.com.au

Why? This small-batch Yarra Valley brewer is all about keeping things in-house; each release a reflection of its origins and the makers. They recently expanded their award-winning cider production to include beers and this limited-release smoked lager was shown much love at last year's GABS Festival.

Where? The Coldstream brewery (open 10am-5pm daily); The Public Brewery, Croydon.

Word? "One of the best food-matching beers you'll taste. Manuka smoked malts give this beer distinctive bacon, ham-hock and peppery spice that perfectly matches with cheese, grilled or cured meats." - Griggs/Langlands.

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BROWN ALE

Mornington Peninsula Brewery (Mornington, VIC), mpbrew.com.au

Why? As Paul Kelly opined, "from little things, big things grow". For neighbours Matt Bebe and Malcolm McLean, the seed for brewery ownership was planted while celebrating Hawthorn's 2008 premiership win. Two years on, Mornington Peninsula Brewery launched. Their diverse range of brews - including this moreish brown ale - and the brewery itself, are proven crowd-pleasers.

Where? Spotted Mollard, Brunswick.

Word? "This is a malt cocktail full of nutty and cocoa flavours. Perfect with a steak or a chocolate dessert. Decadent but highly drinkable." - Robertson.

Beers from Bad Shepherd.
Beers from Bad Shepherd.Supplied
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HAZELNUT BROWN ALE

Bad Shepherd Brewing (Cheltenham, VIC), badshepherd.com.au

Why? Bad Shepherd's simple, over-arching pledge is to make their offerings "tasty, interesting and fulfilling". Their Hazelnut Brown Ale ticks these boxes, and more. "Dark" doesn't always mean "stout".

Where? Forrester's Hall, Collingwood.

Word? "A sublime liquid journey through a virtual forest of warm malt sweetness leading to a brightly lit clearing of fresh, clean, subtle bitterness. The path along is strewn with the aroma and intriguing flavours of hazelnut, toffee and a hint of chocolate. It's a bush walk in a bottle." - Mitcham.

RAMJET IMPERIAL STOUT

Boatrocker Brewing Company (Braeside, VIC), www.boatrocker.com.au

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Why? Boatrocker's subtitle could well be "beer artistes". This grandiose, barrel-aged 11.4 per cent stout follows a massive 2015 in which they launched a shiny Barrel Room and Cellar Door (which holds some 40,000 litres of beer), and were awarded Champion Small Brewery at the Australian International Beer Awards.

Where? Boatrocker's brewery; The Local Taphouse, St Kilda.

Word? "A beer so big it requires an annual launch day event! Aged in Starward Whisky barrels, it has endless complexity and significant cellaring potential. Brooding strong coffee and dark chocolate notes with sweeter raisin to balance, supported by heady whisky notes." - Menichelli.

CLOUT STOUT

Nail Brewing (Bassendean, WA), nailbrewing.com.au

Why? This 750ml Russian Imperial Stout - an annual, limited-edition release since 2010 - retails at $70-$80, and comes in a smart black and silver gift box. Don't mean to sound like a walking advertisement but… a fail-proof Father's Day gift for the beer connoisseur. (Although your dad might banish it to the pool room, never to be opened.)

Where? Ask for it in good bottle shops.

Word? "Big, boozy [10.5 per cent ABV], bold and incredibly complex. With figs, chocolate, caramel and so many other subtle flavours, it is a beer to be sipped and savoured." - Griggs/Langlands.

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TEMPTRESS PORTER

Holgate Brewhouse (Woodend, VIC), www.holgatebrewhouse.com

Why? Brewery stories don't get much more wholesome than that of the family-owned Holgate, set in the pleasant country environs of Woodend. They've released a series of brilliant beers since 1999; the Temptress, although a little more challenging, is another.

Where? Palace Hotel, South Melbourne.

Word? "The ultimate winter warmer, with bold roasted malts complimented by Dutch cocoa and whole vanilla beans. It's chocolatey without being overly sweet, which makes it incredibly moreish and sessionable." - Griggs/Langlands.

DERWENT AROMATIC SPELT ALE

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Two Metre Tall (Hayes, TAS), 2mt.com.au

Why? If you want organic, then look no further. In 2008, Tasmanian farmers Ashley and Jane Huntington converted an old shearing shed to a brewery. They've since made their name as purveyors of unique farmhouse ciders and ales, headed by the naturally-soured Spelt Ale.

Where? Sun Moth Canteen & Bar, CBD.

Word? "Using farm-grown hops, locally-grown spelt, wheat and barley and fermented using naturally occurring indigenous souring organisms, it's sour, spicy, fruity and incredibly complex; the closestthing to any kind of terroir you'll find in Australian beer." - Langlands.

CHEVALIER SAISON

Bridge Road Brewers (Beechworth, VIC), bridgeroadbrewers.com.au

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Why? In 2005, when Beechworth brewer Ben Kraus first paid tribute to the farmhouse ales of southern Belgium, not many knew what a Saison was. While Kraus' range has bloomed, many of his peers remain Saison-shy, leaving this, to quote Pete Mitcham, "the perfect balance of tart and sweet; and modern and tradition".

Where? Worth the trip to Beechworth, but more bars, including the Local Taphouse, are taking it on.

Word? "Light and dry and dominated by Belgian yeast esters and phenolic flavours, making it spicy, fruity and floral. A great food beer." - Griggs/Langlands.

Good Beer Week begins on Friday. goodbeerweek.com.au

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