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Craft whisky in vogue as Australian distillers prepare to box their first bottles

Michael Koziol
Michael Koziol

Handmade: Jonathan Liu and Dave Withers at work at Archie Rose Distilling Co.
Handmade: Jonathan Liu and Dave Withers at work at Archie Rose Distilling Co.Daniel Munoz

Stand aside, craft beer. Anyone can home brew a batch of bathtub lager, but to make whisky takes planning, finance and – above all – gumption. Just ask the folks at Archie Rose, who are bringing the old art of distillation to the gritty inner 'burbs of Sydney.

"This is an enormous enterprise and there is a very high barrier to entry," says production manager Dave Withers. "Someone doesn't just start a distillery."

Nonetheless, founder Will Edwards took a punt and plunged some serious dough (he coyly suggests north of $3 million) into establishing central Sydney's first new distillery in 150 years. The Rosebery facility, which incorporates a public bar, filled its first cask in February and has so far put about 15,000 litres of whisky on the road to maturation.

Whisky makers Archie Rose also produce white rye, vodka and gin.
Whisky makers Archie Rose also produce white rye, vodka and gin.Daniel Munoz
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Across the country, a new breed of local artisan whiskies is in bloom. Distillers who brewed their first barrel years ago are starting to box their first bottles, introducing Australian and overseas drinkers to new tastes, scents and blends. A whisky from Sullivans Cove, Tasmania, was last year judged the best single malt in the world.

On Saturday, 500 enthusiasts will flock to the annual Sydney Whisky Fair at CBD store The Oak Barrel, where 200 whiskies will be available to taste. Spirits specialist Scott Fitzsimons says it's "an incredibly exciting time" for the industry. "We're now on the world stage," he says. "There's a real thirst for whisky and particularly knowledge about whisky."

For customers at Archie Rose – which also makes gin, vodka and white rye – learning about provenance and process is just as important as the draining of the glass. The buzzword of the moment is "hand-crafted", a term so brazenly bandied about there are lawsuits over its use. Like the craft beer movement, craft whisky is all about authenticity and flavour, says Mr Withers.

Joe Dinsmore at Archie Rose Distilling Co: The Rosebery facility filled its first cask in February.
Joe Dinsmore at Archie Rose Distilling Co: The Rosebery facility filled its first cask in February.Daniel Munoz

"People want to know where their stuff comes from and know that there's someone standing there rather than a computer," he says.

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As the whisky world gains momentum, Mr Fitzsimons says we should expect to see more new releases. This week, Redlands Estate near Hobart produced its debut batch of single malt, with bottle no. 1 selling at an auction on Wednesday night for $2600. Manager Robbie Gilligan says it is the only paddock-to-table whisky in Australia, with barley grown on the estate and then malted, brewed, distilled and aged in pinot noir barrels.

"I would class it as as highly-regarded as what I would get in Scotland," he says. "And that's coming up from a Scotsman."

Dave Withers, Joe Dinsmore and Shane Casey ahead of the annual Sydney Whisky Fair.
Dave Withers, Joe Dinsmore and Shane Casey ahead of the annual Sydney Whisky Fair.Daniel Munoz

In the central western NSW town of Mendooran (population 300), Black Gate produces a sherry-matured single malt that hit the shelves earlier this year. The hot summer climate presented its own challenges, but Mr Fitzsimons says experimentation is integral to the craft movement.

"We're still learning what maturing whisky in Australia means," he says. "We don't really know yet."

Michael KoziolMichael Koziol is Sydney Editor of The Sydney Morning Herald, based in our Sydney newsroom. He was previously deputy editor of The Sun-Herald and a federal political reporter in Canberra.

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