Fergus McGhie review: Barwang Tumbarumba Chardonnay

Barwang Tumbarumba Chardonnay $18

It would not be too much of a stretch to say that Tumbarrumba in the Snowy Mountains is growing some of the best chardonnay fruit in NSW and for that matter the country. The cool climate of the mountains gives the chardonnay from the region a distinctive grapefruit character and plenty of drive from crunchy fresh acidity. It's a small and relatively new region but the quality of recent wines, particularly chardonnay, shows this is a region to watch in the future.

McWilliams have a foothold there and the wines from Tumbarumba under their Barwang label are superb. The latest 2013 vintage is a great example of what the region can produce. It's a tightly wound wine with restraint and power. There's the typical bright grapefruit backbone on display but it's overlaid with subtle barrel ferment characters adding complexity and savoury notes. The palate while intense retains a certain delicacy of fruit. This is a gorgeous wine. The fact that it sells for a touch under $20 is amazing. There are plenty of chardonnays the Barwang might rival at nearly double the price. I've already enjoyed a couple of bottles of this wine and I'm pretty sure I'll enjoy a few more before it runs out.

Fergus McGhie is sales and marketing manager at Mount Majura Vineyard in Canberra.