Girlan 2013 Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige Italy
$29
I love wines that challenge the norm and this week's pinot bianco does just that. It's known as a pretty bland variety on the whole. It doesn't really posses any distinctive aromas or flavours. But, as is the case with the Girlan, aromas and flavours only make up part of the picture, the textures of a wine can give it appeal without relying on either aroma or flavour.
I tried the Girlan last week among a couple of other interesting wines but the Girlan seemed to stick in my mind as the most interesting wine of the group and it was by no means the most expensive or most prestigious wine in the tasting. It had a crunchy, almost tart appeal. A bit of influence from the skins during the ferment I suspect gave it grip on the palate while some zesty fresh acidity kept the flavours zipping across the tongue. It does have some good fruit flavour too, there's delicious stewed quince and guava fruit notes but the texture is still the element of the Girlan that leaves a lasting impression.
It's a wine that needs food, maybe something fatty and rich as a foil for its bright crunchy attack on the palate.
Fergus McGhie is sales and marketing manager at Mount Majura Vineyard, Canberra.