Fergus McGhie review: Kooyong Estate 2013 Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

Kooyong Estate 2013 Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula $42

Sandro Mosel and his team at Kooyong Estate have been perfecting chardonnay for as long as I can remember. There's the single vineyard wines, Farrago and Faultine and also the entry level Clonale. Every one of these wines represents some of the finest chardonnay in the country and therefore the world.

Now at $42 the Estate chardonnay is not an everyday quaffer but I've tried highly regarded white burgundy at triple the price that does not compare with the quality, style and class of the Kooyong. The high end of Australian chardonnay is as good as any in the world and it's makers like Kooyong that have got us to this point.

The 2013 Estate chardonnay is another sublime expression of Mornington Peninsula chardonnay. It's fine, elegant and powerful at the same time. It's loaded with grapefruit and citrus fruit but it's the layers of nougat, hazelnut complexity that build this wine into something special.

There are some hints of barrel ferment character but everything is perfectly balanced by a fresh zesty citrus finish. This is one chardonnay I could enjoy every day of the week. If only I had the budget for it.