Fergus McGhie review: Voyager Estate Girt by Sea 2012 Cabernet Merlot,

Voyager Estate Girt by Sea 2012 Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River $28

I realise it was only a week or so ago I wrote about Voyager's delicious chenin blanc. It's a delicious wine from an underrated variety. Now this week I've been bowled over by another Voyager wine, called Girt by Sea, it's the second tier cabernet merlot from this impressive Margaret River producer. Normally I'd try to spread the reviews around and not give one winery such regular coverage but in the case if this wine I couldn't help myself. It's sublime in every way and a perfect example of Margaret River cabernet merlot.

Initially there are sweet red berry aromas but these give way to more dense cassis with a classic lick of tried leaf and tobacco savouriness. There's more of the same to follow on the palate with juicy ripe berry flavours and plush textures, this is an irresistible wine. The finish is quite soft, the often firm cabernet tannins are held well in check by the balance of over abundant fruit. If you wanted a wine to introduce people to the joys of Margaret River cabernet, this would be the one. I'm also impressed that it's expected to retail for less than $30, great value in my opinion.

Try it with a lamb ragout or spaghetti bolognaise this weekend or keep it in the cellar for a few more years. There's plenty of potential for this wine to improve over time.

Fergus McGhie is sales and marketing manager at Mount Majura Vineyard, Canberra.