Four stars from four corners

Two contrasting summer brews landed on the tasting bench this week - one from Stone and Wood Brewing Company, Byron Bay, the other from Orion Brewery, Okinawa, Japan.

They could be metaphors for the national stereotypes. Loud and cheery Stone and Wood Garden Ale slaps you on the back, calls you maaaate, and pounds your palate with exuberant, brash hoppiness. And a comparatively low 3.8 per cent alcohol invites perhaps just one more stubby.

Orion bows discreetly, lightly and politely onto the palate. Belying its 5 per cent alcohol, it offers delicate, refreshing flavours and softness - suggesting a fair slug of rice malt in the brew. It finishes bone dry and refreshing in the distinctive Japanese style. (It's available at asianbeeron line.com.au.)

Stone and Wood Limited Release Garden Ale

500ml, 2 for $10

Reduce beer's alcohol content and the flavour falls away; increase it and everything rises with it. In 3.8 per cent alcohol Garden Ale, the brewers very cleverly use Tasmanian Ella hops to fill the low-alcohol flavour gap. The hops add a striking citrus flavour and bitterness to accompany the lovely malt and dry finish.

★★★★

Orion Premium Draft Beer

24 344ml bottles $74.90

Orion ''is sure to satisfy Australian pallets this summer'', the press release crows. From Okinawa, Orion is light coloured and light bodied in the crisp, delicate, dry Japanese style. The low bitterness may surprise drinkers of mainstream lager, but it's part and parcel of the style and well suited to delicate Japanese cuisine.

★★★★