Just what the doctor ordered

It's late February and the heady fragrance of crushed grapes mixes with the aroma of fermenting juice wafting through Mount Mary winery at Coldstream, the home of one of Australia's greatest vineyards, and wines - the Bordeaux-inspired blend Quintet.

Down in the barrel room, winemaker Sam Middleton is clearly stoked about the separate parcels of last year's cabernet, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot, which are yet to be brought together to form that iconic wine.

There's probably a sense of relief, too - 2012 is Middleton's first true vintage as head winemaker of the world-renowned family business, established in the early 1970s by his grandfather, the late Dr John Middleton. He stepped up after the difficult 2011 vintage, when the affable Rob Hall, who had been at Mount Mary since '02, left to take up the head winemaking role at nearby winery Kellybrook.

Fine-wine auction house Langton's describes Mount Mary as having ''mythical status among wine collectors'' and Quintet as ''everything a fine wine should be and is still sought with almost religious zeal''. Even a veteran winemaker might be rather anxious taking over such role, yet Sam, at just 30, exudes a quiet confidence and sensibility although wary of the weight of responsibility.

A local GP, Dr John (as friends knew him) was one of the pioneers of the Yarra Valley's modern wine industry: Mount Mary was one of the first vineyards planted there and he recognised the region's potential. Over time, Dr John elevated Mount Mary to legendary status thanks to his extraordinary vineyard and a vision it would produce something special. He helped put Australia on the global wine map.

He was a force to be reckoned with, too: passionate, honest and generous, stubborn, opinionated, often caustically amusing. And he did not suffer fools gladly. His famous (or infamous) yearly Mount Mary newsletter wasn't just a mail-order form with musings on the current releases. It was ''John's scalpel with which he was surgically correcting the abnormalities of the known world'', wrote his son David in the 25th newsletter informing loyal fans of Dr John's death, aged 82, in 2006. An example? His observation that gold medals dished out at wine shows were ''security stamps for the insecure and mindless''.

Aside from being chief executive of Mount Mary, today David Middleton continues the tradition of his father's yearly newsletter, even if it's written in a more temperate tone.

After its founder's death, some industry observers questioned whether Mount Mary could continue.

''When he died, we had a family discussion about what would be the best thing for Mount Mary,'' David says. ''Sam was not ready to take over the sole technical role and I was pretty much a full-time vet so we were questioning whether to sell or keep the place. John was so dominant and the creator of the place but it seemed, as a family, the most logical thing to do was to continue.

''By then, there was such a wonderful coming together of site and varieties and my father's dream had come true: to make a wine that was revered. He wanted people to appreciate something he had created.''

Quintet is that esteemed wine. Dr John appreciated Bordeaux blends where several traditional grape varieties produce a more complex and balanced wine - cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and more for the Quintet, or semillon plus sauvignon blanc for his white Bordeaux blend, Triolet. But he also loved Burgundy and planted pinot noir and chardonnay. Those four wines are the foundation of Mount Mary. A Rhone-inspired blend is in the pipeline, too.

Dr John knew the Yarra was marginal for cool-climate viticulture yet ''he was inspired by Bordeaux and Burgundy and that's why he chose the Mount Mary site as it was climatically between those two regions'', Sam says.

But 40 years ago, when Dr John planted those varieties, climate change was not the everyday topic of conversation for growers that it is now. Higher temperatures and earlier harvest dates more than a decade ago prompted the Mount Mary crew to record climatic data.

''In a 10-year period up to 2010, our climate was closer to the southern Rhone rather than Burgundy and Bordeaux,'' Sam says. ''That got us thinking, where's the Yarra heading and what varieties are most suited to it? We take a long-term view with everything we do here because we want to be here for the long haul.''

In 2008, Mount Mary's so-called Rhone Project began with 1.2 hectares planted to shiraz, grenache, mourvedre, cinsault, clairette, roussanne and marsanne. Sam says the actual blend and whether it will be part of the Mount Mary label or a yet-to-be-named new one are still being determined.

Sam decided winemaking was his vocation only about six years ago. After finishing an agricultural science degree in 2004 he spent a year travelling. Something about the European sensibility resonated with him and he returned home with a resolve. In 2006, a few months before his grandfather's death, Sam scored his first official wine gig, outside the family business, working vintage at Coldstream Hills just down the road. At the time, Dr John said to him: ''Why do you want to go there? You learnt everything here at Mount Mary.'' Sam says: ''I think he was quietly chuffed that someone was showing an interest in winemaking.''

In '08 he moved to Dominique Portet before working the next vintage in Burgundy at Gevrey-Chambertin with Pierre Naigeon. In 2010, he was ready to come home to Mount Mary as the assistant winemaker.

Now, as head winemaker, Sam is acutely aware of the legacy. ''At times I feel the pressure but I also feel very comfortable and confident in what we're doing and it all stems from the vineyard,'' he says.

''We're so focused on producing the best fruit. If we do that, then things in the winery can almost take care of themselves. I'm not saying I'm so hugely experienced I can afford to be entirely hands off. Point is, I am confident about making Mount Mary wines and the styles we are chasing.

''I do want to improve on them, though. I am not going to sit here and live on past glories. History and tradition are important but if you're not evolving with the times, you get left behind and I want to create a new chapter in the business.''

Diehard Mount Mary fans should rejoice at this resolve. Under Sam and David's guidance there is fine-tuning and experimentation coupled with a better understanding of the vineyard, more sustainable practices and, more importantly, a desire to ensure Mount Mary's survival for future generations.

Considering Dr John believed in the Burgundian model of small family-run estates, he would be chuffed that Sam is the winemaker. Brother Hugh, a musician, is now IT manager and, after 10 years in the corporate world, sister Claire joined four months ago as business manager.

But back to those glorious 2012 wines. Barrel samples of the cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir reveal a fine, even vintage and purity of fruit. After a difficult 2011, Sam counts his blessings as those '12s will officially mark the beginning of his Mount Mary journey. They won't be released until 2014 and, besides, there's another vintage to finish before then.

''I have great memories talking about wine and drinking with John and his inspiration has rubbed off onto me,'' Sam of his grandfather. ''I, too, love the challenge of trying to produce that ultimate bottle of wine. It is a never-ending quest.''

All in the family

Mount Mary Quintet 2010, $145

A subtle yet complex red blend and one of Australia's most sought-after wines. The 2010 is beautifully fragrant and pure with leafy, earthy, rhubarb and cassis notes, superbly balanced, supple, precise tannins with some grip on the finish guaranteeing longevity for at least the next 15 years. Yet this medium-bodied, elegant wine is drinking well now and is a joy to savour.

Mount Mary Pinot Noir 2010, $145

Sure, there are enticing aromas and flavours of blood orange and cherry mixed with complex savoury nuances plus ferrous, woodsy not-too-oaky as that's so neatly woven into the body of the wine. But this pinot is all about the palate. The super-fine, lacy tannins are seductive, as is the long, persistent finish. A humdinger of a pinot.

Mount Mary Vineyard Yarra Valley Triolet 2010, $95

Australia's most gorgeous, refined sauvignon blanc blend is a tribute to the great whites of Graves in Bordeaux. As always, the semillon and splash of the floral muscadelle add much to Triolet's overall presence and mouthfeel. The 2010 Triolet has plenty of texture and body but its immediate appeal is its smoky and flinty character. There's some honeysuckle and lemon pith, too, and a dry and moreish finish. Stunning drink.