Little spots for a drop of liquor

He used to rattle the cocktail shakers at Melbourne's most prestigious cocktail bar Black Pearl but Tim Philips has a shock statement to make.

''Sydney's got it over Melbourne,'' says the owner of Bulletin Place, the lauded bolt-hole bar in Circular Quay that catapulted itself into best-of lists in its first few months.

Just five years after Sydney introduced small-bar legislation in a bid to recreate the laneway-style drinking culture that Melbourne so elegantly oozed, the emerald city has overtaken its southern sister.

Of the 150 licences granted across the state from Mudgee to Manly, four made it into the World's Top 50 ranking of bars (as judged by 227 international industry experts) this year, up from just one in 2011 and twice the number of Melbourne.

''I see it as a real bar revolution,'' says Philips, also the winner of Diageo's worldwide bartender competition in 2012.

''The Sydney public seem to be really opening up to it. It's worlds apart from the last time I was living here in 2003.'' Drinkers are now spoilt for choice and the list of favourites change every week but here's where you should be bar-hopping right now.

I see it as a real bar revolution. The Sydney public seem to be really opening up to it.

TAPAVINO & BULLETIN PLACE

6 and 10-14 Bulletin Place Circular Quay

Yes, they come in a pair, located beside each other in an otherwise drab laneway. Head above the Cabrito Coffee Traders to a tiny wooden room with antique charm and vibrant cocktails made with market-fresh fruit (nectarine sour, anyone?). Bulletin Place shot into number 26 in the World's Top 50 list for being ''a dive bar that has incorporated years of fine drinking learning and solid service expertise''. Then, pop next door for Spanish tapas and the city's best sherry selection.

VASCO

421 Cleveland Street, Surry Hills

Neighbourhood bars don't come much more neighbourly than ex-Eau De Vie bartender Max Greco's crazy Italian-rock themed bar. It's tiny, filled with locals and awash with rock memorabilia and bizarre bric-a-brac. When he's not banging on cymbals and snare drums hanging perilously over the bar, Greco is making stunning cocktails to go with Italian snacks such as polenta chips with gorgonzola sauce.

EARL'S/MARY'S

407 King and 6 Mary streets, Newtown

Another two that are best done in a pair, Earl's and Mary's led the charge in Newtown/Enmore in 2013, which finally jumped aboard the small-bar train properly and welcomed at least half a dozen new bars. The former is owned by ex-Shady Pines Saloon bartender Pasan Wijesena, the latter by ex-Gardel's and Bodega fellas Jake Smyth and Kenny Graham. Both riff on the American tavern. Scoff Sydney's best burgers at Mary's. Wash it down with Wu Tang-inspired cocktails at Earl's.

LOBO PLANTATION

209 Clarence Street, Sydney

It seems way too extravagant to be a humble small bar, but finding a seat here is just as difficult. The underground hideout is inspired by Cuban sugar baron Julio Lobo and is lavish in rich mahogany, bright-green palm fronds and a rum selection to make your eyes water. South American street food including tamales, cheese balls and pastelitos are revamped and the cocktails are perfect for hot Latino nights.

THE BARBER SHOP

89 York Street, city

There aren't many places you can get a close shave out the front and a gin cocktail down the back. British owner Mike Enright takes his gin so seriously, he has one on tap and a further 30 behind the bar. He mixes it with house-made cordial for the Gimlet and complements cocktails with a handful of craft beers, wines and cheese plates. It's a right-proper bar for dapper ladies and gents.

THE BLACKOUT CAFE

304 Pacific Highway, Lindfield

The north shore was another quiet achiever in 2013 with three newbies opening in Turramurra and this little gem bringing a hint of Surry Hills to Lindfield. Distressed brickwork, leather banquettes and cosy tables are heaving with locals every night of the week. Delicate mod-Oz share plates aren't the cheapest but there are excellent, well-priced wines to match.

ARCADIA LIQUORS

7 Cope Street, Redfern

This comfy nook has won over locals not by doing anything spectacular but by simply offering a consistently great night. Craft beers are cheap, the vat of mulled wine during winter is delicious and the little beer garden covered in creeper vines and op shop finds is a place I'd like to call home. There's a bit of Germany, a bit of Brooklyn and a bit of the best side to Redfern.

MOJO RECORD BAR

73 York Street, city

The music is just as hot as the fresh pizza delivered to this basement bar behind the Mojo record store. Playlists are carefully curated each night and go down well with precision cocktails and lots of craft beer. Keep an eye out for vintage concert posters, the vinyl appreciations night and the ever-changing bar creations from this top-notch team.

BAXTER INN

152-156 Clarence Street, city

Anton Forte and Jason Scott's two Sydney bars, Baxter Inn and Shady Pines Saloon, both made the World's Top 50 list along with Darlinghurst's Eau De Vie. No best-of list would be complete without all three. Head downstairs for breath-taking whiskies at the Prohibition-themed Baxter, chug tinnies and peanuts at western-style Shady Pines, then step up to stunning, elegant cocktails at Eau De Vie. Take that, Melbourne.