Phil Sexton tribute ale by Stone and Wood is a five-star winner

Bright, Victoria, on a cold weekday night and diners spread sparsely through the town's eateries. Culinary landmark, Simone's, hunkers opaque against the winter chill, hiding and nourishing an unknown number of diners.

Nearby, the brilliant, glass-walled, Japanese-inspired Tani restaurant, bares its innards to passers by, revealing a less than half-full house – in contrast, apparently, to the sell-out weekends.

But across the road, locals pack into brightly lit Bright Brewery. The tiny start-up of nine years ago is today a spacious, buzzing social hub for the town, busy even on a cold night out of tourist season.

Local bed-and-breakfast operator, Graham Badrock, says the brewery and eatery, founded by the late Fiona Reddaway and husband Scott Brandon, earned its wide community appeal as much for its inviting ambience and decent fresh food as for its excellent beers, brewed on site.

Lobethal Bierhaus Bohemian Pilsner
★★★
330ml $5.90

On weekends, Lobethal Bierhaus, in the Adelaide Hills, comes to life as a family watering hole, with singles, mums, dads and kids spilling from the beer hall onto the large outdoor area. On a hot day, the Bierhaus's pilsner refreshes with its full, clean, malty palate and assertive hops bitterness.

Stone and Wood Forefathers Phil Sexton English Brown Ale
★★★★★
500ml $8-$10

Forefather for Father's Day? Corny as Kansas, for sure, but who cares when the beer's this good. A glowing mid-brown colour it offers deep malty flavours and a dry finish, with a pervasive and lingering bitterness, totally in harmony with the malt. The beer salutes craft beer pioneer, Phil Sexton.