Quaffers: Tooheys Old and Kent Old Brown tributes

Overwhelmingly, Australians drink lager rather than ale – a phenomenon changing at the margins with the growth of craft beer and, of course, through the popular but still niche ales of Coopers.

Amazingly, though, two old NSW ales battle on and can be found on tap, as we were reminded during the recent Moruya Jazz Festival.

Black, rich and malty Tooheys Old, first brewed in 1869, still has its followers and provides a stark flavour contrast to the taste-alike lagers served alongside it. Pubs all serve it too cold. But we weren't game to ask for warm beer in a Moruya pub.

Kent Old Brown (originally made at Tooth's Kent Brewery) comes a few shades lighter than Tooheys old and a touch dryer, while still offering delicious, warming malt flavours.

That both of these niche beers survived successive changes of ownership over the decades is truly amazing.

Asahi Super Dry 330ml six-pack

★★★★

$20

In 1987 Asahi paved the way for what became known as "dry" beers. Thankfully, they're wet, of course, as "dry" simply means beer with all the sugar converted to alcohol. Now brewed in China, Asahi offers the full, malty body of mainstream lager, with a dry, smooth palate and moderate hops bitterness.

Red Duck Loch Ness Scottish Ale 500ml

★★★★

$9.60

A beer for a cold Highland night, Loch Ness hits the palate with rich, warming, malty flavours and the bracing effect of alcohol (6.7 per cent). Maturation in a whisky cask gives the beer even more punch. The brewer attributes the pleasantly bitter finish in the low-malt ale to caramelisation of the malt.