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The fastest way to ruin a wine tasting

Cathy Gowdie

It's a faux pas to turn up at a wine tasting smelling strongly of anything.
It's a faux pas to turn up at a wine tasting smelling strongly of anything.Jennifer Soo

Why do so many people persist in wearing powerful scents when they go to wine tastings? I am often appalled by the number of people at wine store tastings or wineries reeking of perfume or aftershave. It makes it impossible to fully assess or enjoy the wine.

If you were a Q&A audience member and I were Tony Jones, I would say something like: ''Sir, I'll take that as a comment.'' I think you already know - as I do - that people who slap on the scent to this overwhelming extent suffer from one or all of three problems: real or imagined body odour; an impaired sense of smell; or blithe disregard for the comfort of others. These individuals appear unaware that applying smelly stuff so lavishly that passers-by are struck speechless by their invisible trail is the olfactory equivalent of walking down the street shrieking, ''Look at me!'' It's bad enough in an enclosed train carriage or shop, and can be literally sickening for fellow travellers or shoppers who are sensitive to strong scents, especially synthetic ones. It's worse at wineries, cafes and restaurants, where customers rely on their noses to help determine what they'd like to buy, or simply to enjoy their coffee or meals: our ability to detect flavour depends on smell as well as taste.

This is why it's such a faux pas to turn up at a wine tasting smelling strongly of anything at all, whether it's Eau de Celebrity, Hint of Furtive Cigarette or Heavy Duty Deodorant Spritz. If you're planning on dining at the kind of up-to-the-minute restaurant where tables are packed closer than Tokyo commuters, I'd suggest the same etiquette applies.

Perhaps the folk at Q&A could convene an expert panel to thrash out a national code of conduct for this troubling issue? While they're at it, they could address another contemporary scourge: cafe and restaurant proprietors who direct or permit staff to clean tables and other surfaces with spray bottles while customers are still seated nearby. I am yet to drink a glass of pinot (or a coffee, or eat a bowl of risotto) that has been enhanced by the addition of citrus-scented, anti-bacterial spray wafting from the other end of the room. Can we declare a fatwa on this unfortunate practice?

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