Thirsty work at Canberra's BentSpoke brewpub

On a lazy, hot, late-summer afternoon, Canberra's BentSpoke brewpub, Braddon, beckoned. What could be better after a long drive from the coast than a Richard Watkins' special summer brew? Indeed, what could be better than trying all four seasonal offerings.

When BentSpoke opened last winter, Watkins promised specialty and seasonal ales in the months ahead as the new brewery settled into its stride.

With the summer coming to an end, we just caught the last batch of Spicy Baubles, a pale infused en-route to the taps with lemons, limes and Ella hops. The pale amber-coloured ale offered intense lime flavours, with a unique, lingering bitter-tart tang of citrus rind.

Frenzy raspberry wheat beer and Heat Freekah (both reviewed below) gave equally exciting, idiosyncratic drinking. PSI, a 10.2-per-cent-alcohol relative of Heat Freekah, showed a more opulent, bitter, absolutely harmonious side of the French saison style

BentSpoke Frenzy

★★★★★

360ml glass $7.50

BentSpoke's summer brews include Frenzy, a red-hued wheat beer fermented with fresh raspberry extract. Wheat beer, with its light body, low bittering and high acidity, provides the right base for a raspberry infusion. Distinctively tangy and tart, Frenzy provides clean, quirky refreshment in a regular strength beer (4.7 per cent alcohol).

Heat Freekah

★★★★★

360ml glass $7.50

Freekah, named for a wheat variety in the brew, is one of two BentSpoke ales inspired by the French farmhouse style. It looks good enough to eat, with its pale lemon colour and pure white head. The richly fruity aroma, creamy palate, zingy, lemon-like acidity and earthy notes ensure one glass will never be enough.