Variety and quality worth celebrating
Get a taste for the state's regionality as wineries hone their specialities, writes Nick Stock.
New South Wales has 14 official wine regions and their diversity in styles is striking - and probably a little unexpected.
From the vineyards of Tumbarumba - a source of fine sparkling wine and edgy contemporary chardonnay - to the warm inland Riverina region - home to some of Australia's heartiest reds, such as durif, and the finest botrytis-style sweet wines made in the country - there's a lot to consider, taste and admire.
"Regionality" has been a buzzword in Australian wine for two decades as the industry has strived to convince the world of Australia's diversity and uniqueness. Now a confidence is sweeping through NSW wineries, which are staking a claim on unique styles across the various regions and bringing new and traditional styles into focus.
If riesling is the ultimate vinous medium for expressing a sense of place, that NSW is home to a swag of the leading riesling wines should be celebrated and admired.
From the Canberra district come the consistently excellent rieslings from the iconic cellars of Helm and Clonakilla, as well as smaller producers, such as Ravensworth, Nick O'Leary and Lark Hill. Ranging from the bracingly dry and right into the sweet, late-harvest end of the spectrum, you'll find great examples of every style here.
Bloodwood Wines has single-handedly convinced the world that the gravelly soils of the Orange region produce compelling world-class riesling, inspiring the likes of Brangayne of Orange, Tamburlaine, Logan, Printhie and Orange Mountain to follow.
In Mudgee, Robert Stein, with son Jacob now at the helm, is showing the way with outstanding riesling of character in previously unthinkable styles. Others, such as David Lowe, are investigating riesling's potential, fuelled by favourable soils and elevated growing sites.
Of course, history tells us that Hunter Valley semillon was once NSW's answer to riesling (semillon was labelled "Hunter River Riesling" in a bygone era) but Australia's oldest continuously producing wine region has since made its signature - dry and age-worthy white semillon - a globally recognised treasure.
The state wine region most likely to make a significant mark, at home and internationally, is Tumbarumba. Winemakers far and wide are lusting after the racy, cool-climate chardonnay grapes this region is now producing consistently, with a view to crafting wines at the cutting edge of the Australian chardonnay renaissance.
Meanwhile, the Hunter is asserting its place as one of the mainland's pre-eminent terroirs. In 2012, the Hunter Valley Wine Show introduced its inaugural Wine of Provenance Award, judged jointly by the chairman of judges, Jim Chatto, and panel chairs Tom Carson, Corrina Wright and myself.
A flight of white and a flight of red produced a show of depth, consistency and greatness, with a level of coherent character across all wines seldom seen anywhere in Australia.
Originally intended as a single award, the split was impossible between red (shiraz) and white (semillon) so two awards were presented - both to Tyrrell's for Vat 1 Semillon and Vat 9 Shiraz, respectively.
It is no wonder, then, that astute followers of wine are celebrating the quality and diversity across the state with renewed interest and energy. The strength of regional character, the discovery and recognition of the best sites, and the careful crafting and evolution of wine styles makes for a convincing theme.
There's much to celebrate and discover here.
Sydney Cellar Door showcases NSW wine and runs from February 22 to 24 at Hyde Park in the city. For details, see nswwinefestival.com.au.