What to drink ... Artisanal Aussie producers
These local winemakers should be championed for producing wonderful drops across a range of varieties.
UNDER $30
Clos Clare Riesling Watervale 2013 $26
Sam and Tom Barry might come from Clare Valley royalty - they are third-generation producers of renowned family winery Jim Barry - but they also have their own small label, Clos Clare, and their riesling is its star performer. The 2013 vintage in the valley is proving to be an excellent one, too: this riesling has a heady aroma of feijoa and citrus, especially lemon, lime and their pith. The wine is complemented by its soft, chalky acidity; although fresh and bright, it's very composed and almost gentle on the palate. Bring on the summer of riesling. At closclare.com.au
UNDER $30
Pondalowie MT Tempranillo 2012 $27
A prolonged drought then floods were taking their toll on Dominic and Krystina Morris's Pondalowie property at Bridgewater on Loddon and that's why the MT tempranillo has missed several vintages since 2008. So welcome back MT and what a return - the '12 is glorious with its enticing inky red colour. It's fragrant, all dark red cherry and plum fruit, and earthy with that distinct and delectable tempranillo sarsparilla character. What's interesting is that this wine is not aged in wood, so those grainy, powerful tannins are all fruit derived. From pondalowie.com.au
UNDER $40
Ruggabellus Efferus 2012 $40
Abel Gibson is one of Australia's most talented winemakers. In the heart of the Barossa Valley, his grenache, mataro, syrah and cinsault morph into exquisite wines. He produces four glorious reds, all blends, with Efferus being led by mataro, with splashes of syrah and grenache. The result is the most exquisite example of mataro. It's earthy, ferrous, smelling of fresh blackberries, dried thyme, pepper and prosciutto, and has a lovely floral lift. Minuscule quantities are available though and Ruggabellus wines sell out quickly, so don't delay. From ruggabellus.com.au
SPLURGE
Dr Mayer Pinot Noir 2012 $55
Timo Mayer is making some of the Yarra Valley's most thrilling wines at Gembrook Hill. He's an outstanding artisanal producer and works alongside Andrew Marks at Gembrook as well as under his own label, Mayer. Dr Mayer is seriously good. It has a heady fragrance of cherries, damp undergrowth, mushrooms and five spice with a marked stemmy and sappy character, and on the palate that gives an energy to this wine. It's sweet fruit, too, with ripe, fine tannins and perfectly pitched acidity,adding up to an ethereal drink. Try Barrique Wine Store, Healesville.