What to drink ... Australian-grown Rhone whites
These wines have their origins in southern France and are just waiting to be paired with flavoursome foods.
UNDER $25
Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2012, $18
If it's curry or pad Thai noodles you're eating, one white wine can easily handle the heat from chillies, the zest from kaffir lime leaves, the tang from tamarind and the creaminess from coconut milk - and it's viognier. But it has to be one with the right amount of texture and weight to counteract the spicy flavours, and Yalumba's Eden Valley viognier fits the bill. It coats the palate, complementing the food's spiciness. And the 2012 has just the right amount of its own ginger spice plus honeysuckle, apricot and kernel. It's delicious and a bonus at this price from Nick's Wine Merchants.
UNDER $40
John Duval Plexus Marsanne Roussanne Viognier 2012, $32
Winemaker John Duval's aim with this three-way blend is to highlight the fruit aromas while building structure and texture. The mix consists of marsanne at 55 per cent with 35 per cent roussanne then viognier; the fruit is from the Barossa Valley, so it's plump and ripe with florals, quince, juicy stone fruit, ginger and a caramelised banana character. A very appealing wine and its unctuousness means it can handle some heat, such as slow-cooked pork belly with Chinese spices and chilli. Look for it at Decanters by The Bay in Port Melbourne.
UNDER $40
Quartz Hill Pyrenees Viognier 2011, $32
There's something in the hills in north-west Victoria, as viognier seems suited to the region if Quartz Hill is anything to go by. Certainly, there's extra attention to detail in its vineyard because the land is tended biodynamically. It's not a wine to drink on its own; it screams out for food, maybe hard cheese or curry puffs to temper the ripe stone fruit and spicy oak that adds to the palate weight. Full-bodied, rich and incredibly textural, with citrus, ginger and peppery notes that make it feel quite bitey. A terrific wine. For stockists, see quartzhillwines.com.au.
SPLURGE
Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne 2003, $45
If there's one marsanne everyone seems to know and love, it's the bargain wine from Tahbilk, current vintage 2012 and about $14. But Tahbilk also has a very special aged release with fruit sourced from low-yielding vines planted in 1927. It's fresh and vibrant, belying its 10 years, although there are certainly aged characters. Wonderful toasty notes - buttered brioche, actually - some citrus-blossom fragrance, curry-leaf complexity, orange zest with chalky acidity and a dry finish that's riesling-like in its fineness. Gorgeous! See tahbilk.com.au.