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What to drink ... Greek wines

Travel by vine and enjoy the many fruits of the Hellenic Republic.

Jane Faulkner

From left: Antonopoulos Mantinia Moschofilero, 2011; Gaia Agiorgitiko, 2011; Kir-Yianni Ramnista Xinomavro, 2009 and Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko, 2011.
From left: Antonopoulos Mantinia Moschofilero, 2011; Gaia Agiorgitiko, 2011; Kir-Yianni Ramnista Xinomavro, 2009 and Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko, 2011.Supplied

UP TO $30

Antonopoulos Mantinia Moschofilero 2011, $26

MOSCHOFILERO is an aromatic, pink-tinged white variety grown in the cool-climate area of Mantinia in the Peloponnese, and it's a lovely, summery drink with plenty of good, snappy acidity yet decent texture, too. The Antonopolous 2011 has all that plus a delightful floral nose with hints of candied peel and quince, as well as creamed honey and a touch of phenolics on the palate, which adds to its mouthfeel. It's not overly complicated; it's just a delicious drink, especially with fried whitebait and skordalia. From Europa Cellars.

UP TO $30

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Gaia Agiorgitiko 2011, $28

GAIA produces a youthful agiorgitiko named Notios plus its top wine, a more structured, aged, worthy one named Gaia Estate. Agiorgitiko by Gaia fits neatly between the two. It has more stuffing than the former, less oomph than the latter, and it's a ripper for the price. It's garnet-red with ripe, round tannins, has loads of spice, and is earthy with an appealing mix of oregano, lavender and menthol. Match to chargrilled lamb cutlets sprinkled with sumac.Tip: when pronouncing the grape variety, leave the g's out and you will be close - ah-yohr-YEE-tee-koh. Easy. At Europa Cellars.

UP TO $35

Kir-Yianni Ramnista Xinomavro 2009, $34

XINOMAVRO is one of my favourite Greek grape varieties: a tannic and highly acidic red. The name translates to ''bitter black'' and Kir-Yianni produces some of the best. It can be confronting because of the mouth-puckering acidity, but it's meant to be enjoyed with food, not on its own, so serve with barbecued steak and a spicy sauce. It has an earthy, mushroomy edge meshed with dried sage, bright-red fruits and its telltale roasted-tomato fragrance. This '09 still has the rawness of youth and will benefit from ageing. Love it. From Europa Cellars.

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UP TO $40

Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko 2011, $35

ASSYRTIKO is the great white of Santorini. Although it grows on parts of the mainland, it is more at home on this enchanting island. And it is a humdinger of a wine. Sigalas is a wonderful producer, caring for these rare vines that grow in volcanic soil. The result is a wine that's so minerally on the palate, it defines the word. Add to that its briny character, zingy acidity and lemon flavours of pith, zest and juice, and the result is a fabulous drink. It is perfect as an aperitif, although a seafood platter with oysters and scallops would make a most happy combo. From Prince Wine Store.

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