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What to drink ... McLaren Vale Wines

Spicy and savoury alternative varietals such as these can recharge your palate.

Jane Faulkner

One of the many vineyards in McLaren Vale.
One of the many vineyards in McLaren Vale.Adam Bruzzone

Up to $25

Paxton Shiraz Rose 2013 $19

If McLaren Vale producers couldn't make decent rose from shiraz, something would be awry. And that's certainly not the case with the Paxton shiraz rose, sourced from a biodynamically grown single vineyard; it has a spicy nose that follows through on the palate. I generally prefer super dry styles of rose, but the sweetness on the palate of this juicy, full-bodied wine is balanced by acidity and fleshier texture. It means this rose can handle food with a bit more heat, such as beef with black bean sauce and chillies. Available from paxtonvineyards.com.

McLaren Vale.
McLaren Vale.Supplied
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UP TO $25

Oliver's Taranga Vineyards Vermentino 2013 $24

McLaren Vale is famous for its full-bodied luscious shiraz, but it's also perfect for more alternative varieties. Oliver's Taranga vineyards have been leading the way with selections of those from sagrantino and tempranillo to fiano and vermentino. It is spurred on by winemaker Corrina Wright's love of these wines. The 2013 whites have just been released and, as this vermentino reveals, they are super fresh and vibrant. Tasting this, I'm craving summer and a bowl of salty fried shrimp. And an ocean view. Try oliverstaranga.com.

OVER $50

S.C Pannell Grenache 2011 $55

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Each year I look forward to what Stephen Pannell does with grenache, whether in blends or this varietal sourced from 69-year-old vines, and that's because he makes some of the most profound yet energetic examples. The cooler and demanding 2011 vintage has resulted in a wine that's just shy of full-bodied with more red fruits - the wine is, as always, a savoury nuanced grenache. Neatly balanced with refreshing acidity, sandy yet ripe tannins - all that's needed is paella studded with lots of spicy chorizo and mussels. From Prince Wine Store.

SPLURGE

Toby Bekkers Syrah 2011 $110

Toby Bekkers is a specialist in organic and biodynamic practices who has established a label of the same name with his French-born wife and winemaker, Emmanuelle. The 2011 syrah is the inaugural wine and most definitely in the splurge category. But it is also superb with great definition and will age at least 12 years. It reveals a surprisingly subtle yet fragrant nose, plus a savoury more meaty character; it's the palate that's so good. Full-bodied but not heavy, and the oak adds to the wine's mouth-feel. At bekkerswine.com.

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