From left: Logan Weemala Riesling 2012, Charteris The Hunt Vineyard Riesling Bannockburn 2012, Leo Buring Leonay DW118 Watervale Riesling Mature Release 2005, Salomon Undhof Kogl Riesling 2011.
From left: Logan Weemala Riesling 2012, Charteris The Hunt Vineyard Riesling Bannockburn 2012, Leo Buring Leonay DW118 Watervale Riesling Mature Release 2005, Salomon Undhof Kogl Riesling 2011.

Jane Faulkner

UNDER $25

Logan Weemala Riesling 2012, $22

WEEMALA is the name of Logan's vineyard in Orange, a cool-climate region that produces some very fine white wines. This riesling is no exception. It has a delicately fragrant nose with a touch of florals, especially orange blossom, and on the palate is all light citrus - more mandarin than orange. There's ginger spice, too, with a touch of sweetness tempered by the soft acidity. It's very fresh, lively and an enjoyable, uncomplicated drink. Terrific as an aperitif or match with chicken pho. Try Banks Fine Wine, Kyneton.

UNDER $30

Charteris The Hunt Vineyard Riesling Bannockburn 2012, $29

MAYBE it's the schist soils throughout Central Otago but, whatever it is, riesling rocks in that part of the world. For many years winemaker P. J. Charteris worked at Brokenwood in the Hunter Valley but he is now doing his own thing and making pinot noir and riesling. This 2012 has depth and great palate weight; there's lusciousness, too, from the smidge of residual sugar, which the acidity balances out beautifully. Being focused, minerally and textural with a core of juicy fruit makes this a stunning drink. Try with pork rillettes. From City Wine Shop.

UNDER $40

Leo Buring Leonay DW118 Watervale Riesling Mature Release 2005, $32

RIESLING is the most noble of white grape varieties and has the ability to age gracefully, given the right conditions. Someone at Leo Buring had the foresight to hold back some Leonay stock to release it later with bottle age. Brilliant call. This 2005 looks fresh and vibrant yet has developed more complex characters, too. Toasty, baked ricotta notes meld with pristine lime-lemon juice to a long finish. Will easily go to 2020. The recommended retail is $40 but the price above is Dan Murphy's. Bargain.

UNDER $40

Salomon Undhof Kogl Riesling 2011, $35

AUSTRIAN riesling often feels silky yet has some grippy phenolics, too, which add to the appealing mouth-feel of the wine. This has loads of texture yet is quite light across the tongue, as the fine acidity cuts through the richness. It's enticingly floral, spicy, zingy and really gives the taste buds a workout. Kogl is the name of this single vineyard, which is a terraced slope overlooking the Danube in Kremstal. Enjoy with Chinese braised pork. Available at Nick's Wine Merchants.