What to drink ... Sangiovese
This red, with a name derived from the Latin meaning 'the blood of Jove', is well worth a look, whether from the old world or the new.
UP TO $25
Pizzini Sangiovese 2011, $25
The Pizzinis, in the King Valley, have been making sangiovese for a long time and their structured Brunello-style flagship Rubacuori is stunning at $110. This is their entry-level wine. It's a sangiovese for drinking now and easy on the budget. The 2011 is tangy and juicy, with a blood-orange fragrance plus exotic spice and a woodsy note. While a lighter style, it's quite a tight and austere wine, which I like, and it has plenty of charm with a herbal Campari twist on the finish. Best enjoyed with a plate of prosciutto or a pasta ragu. From pizzini.com.au
UNDER $40
Greenstone Sangiovese Rosso di Colbo 2012, $30
Rosso di Colbo is a play on the Tuscan wine style rosso di Montalcino, a more approachable wine than Brunello. And Colbo? That's after Colbinabbin, home to the Greenstone vineyard at Heathcote. The 2012 is full of juicy plum fruit and tangy cherries, earthy with a hint of spice and orange zest, with soft Italianate tannins. A supple wine but not wimpy, as there's some grip on the finish. Totally gluggable - pairs especially well with a puttanesca pizza. From Rathdowne Cellars.
OVER $40
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2008, $50
Fontodi is one of my favourite Chianti producers, based in Panzano, with beautiful vineyards farmed bio-dynamically. While Chianti Classico can include other red varieties in the mix, this is 100 per cent sangiovese. Give this wine time to open up - it is so much better the next day. It's youthful and vibrant with a core of juicy, dense black fruits, woodsy, earthy with hints of juniper and dried sage. It has very good acidity, with the distinct sangiovese savoury-sour notes that are so appealing sitting alongside ripe, grainy, firm tannins. The perfect match? A big, juicy steak. From Prince Wine Store.
SPLURGE
Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $120
Brunello di Montalcino is the most structured of sangiovese and can age a long time. While many can be big, tannic wines, Fuligni always has a certain elegance. This smells of the vineyard soils; complex and deep-earthy with sour cherries, pips and a distinct balsamic note with fruit sweetness. There's good acidity but it's all about the tannins - ripe, round and powerful. Although structured, this full-bodied wine isn't forced. It has plenty of poise with extraordinary length. The '07 is drinking well now, and will easily see out another 15 years. From Boccaccio Cellars.