What to drink ... textural white wines

UNDER $30

Soumah Savarro Yarra Valley $25
Savarro is Soumah's name for savagnin. While an old variety, it was mistakenly called albarino in Australia for a while before growers had to revert to other monikers. Mostly savagnin sticks. Soumah produces one of the better examples, a fragrant wine smelling of buttery apple tart with florals, white pepper and spice. What sets this apart from other local savagnins is its terrific texture and savouriness. Chill this down and enjoy with a bowl of spaghetti marinara. From Cloud Wine, South Melbourne.

UNDER $40

Kellybrook Estate Gewurztraminer 2012 $38
Confession time: when did you last drink that most undervalued, wonderful and spicy white wine, gewurztraminer? It's time to revisit this variety, especially when it's made by someone who knows how to handle the fruit respectfully, like Rob Hall from Kellybrook in the Yarra Valley. This has all the allure of the variety with its distinctive aromatics of roses, ginger spice, geranium, musk and pear. It's perfect with stinky, washed rind cheeses. From kellybrookwinery.com.au

UNDER $50

Yalumba The Virgilius Eden Valley Viognier 2010 $43
The Virgilius is Australia's most sophisticated and finest viognier. Yalumba with chief winemaker Louisa Rose at the helm is at the forefront of the variety, championing its beauty, flavour and gorgeous texture. The 2010 is the best to date with its delicate bouquet, a heady mix of creamed honey, butter biscuits, almonds, apricot kernel and white blossom. It's super complex, rich and full-bodied with a velvety palate and superbly balanced. Pork rillettes or pad thai are neat combos. From Nick's Wine Merchant.

SPLURGE

Vigneti Massa Derthona Timorasso 2010 $60
Every now and then I taste a wine that stops me in my tracks. Today it's timorasso, a rare ancient variety from Alessandria in Piedmont, north-west Italy. The wine is glorious. It has a distinctly acacia blossom note with a fragrant burst of dried herbs. It's fuller bodied with a creamy, leesy richness, plus a silky, moreish palate and its fine acidity and minerally texture lift it to a long, elegant finish. Savour on its own, at first, then think about matching it with pan-fried snapper. From Enoteca Sileno.