What to drink ... unusual varieties

UNDER $20

Elefante Vino De La Tierra De Castilla Blanco 2012 $14

The blend for this easy-drinking Spanish white is tweaked each year, with the 2012 consisting mostly of the aromatic macabeo, the textural verdejo and the fragrant sauvignon. The Spanish varieties are well known in that country, but less so in Australia. The result is a bright and zingy drink with loads of flavour, but it's not ersatz. And it's a bargain. Hint of florals with an attractive briny note, lemon pith and Meyer lemon juice on the palate with crunchy acidity to finish. It's a fantastic quaffer for spring and summer with fish and chips. Try Cablecar Wine & Spirits, Elwood.

UNDER $40

First Drop Minchia Montepulciano 2010 $35

While First Drop is based in the Barossa Valley and highlights its subregions on the shirazes it produces, winemaker Matt Gant has a thing for Mediterranean varieties including montepulciano, which hails from Abruzzo, Italy. He calls it ''monte'' and has been a fan of this variety in Australia because it's juicy, fresh and medium-bodied. The 2010 is vibrant and lively with a core of dark red fruit with liquorice, yet this is most definitely savoury with chalky tannins and cleansing acidity. Loads of personality, like the winemaker. Enjoy with spaghetti bolognese. From firstdropwines.com.

OVER $40

Descendientes De J. Palacios Petalos 2010 $48

I'm totally smitten with the red variety mencia from the north-west of Spain, especially those by Descendientes de J. Palacios (DJP) from Bierzo. The mountainous vineyards make for back-breaking work but the attention to detail in these wines is second to none. Petalos is the wine to try as an introduction to the variety, the region and DJP. It's a heady mix of raspberry and red liquorice, exotic spice and earthy with dark cherries, too. It's full-bodied but incredibly light. Great on its own or with braised pork belly. From Prince Wine Store.

SPLURGE

Passopisciaro 2010 $60

Nerello mascalese is one of the most alluring and unique varieties as it grows on the slopes of Mount Etna, Sicily. Miraculously, there are old vineyards that continue to defy and survive the lava flows. Passopisciaro has several plots at different altitudes and the variety known as passopisciaro is a blend from various sites. The 2010 is stunning and the best to date. Don't be fooled by its light colour, as this has plenty of acid and tannin but it's not a big wine. Its perfume is all florals and musk with a touch of menthol, and the palate is fantastic. Give it plenty of air to open up; it's ethereal. From Boccaccio Cellars.