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What to drink ... wines from Margaret River

These drops from our friends in the west are full of bold and pleasant surprises.

Jane Faulkner

Margaret River wine region, Western Australia.
Margaret River wine region, Western Australia.Ken Martin

UNDER $25

Flametree Shiraz 2011 $23

Cabernet sauvignon blends deservedly put Margaret River on the global wine map, but not so shiraz. That said, there have been some smart shirazes making their mark of late. This Flametree 2011 is outstanding for the price. It's medium-weighted and wonderfully fragrant with liquorice, warm spice and prosciutto alongside plush, ripe fruit, although it's not mawkish as there's balanced acidity with tangy plum and cherry notes. Enjoy with friends sharing Ladro's badabing pizza on Monday nights and it is guaranteed the bottle will soon empty. From Vintage Cellars.

UP TO $40

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Fraser Gallop Parterre Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 $36

Margaret River excels in semillon sauvignon blanc blends and while there are fresh, vibrant, tropical-fruited examples, Fraser Gallop's Parterre is one of the finest for its complexity and depth. The semillon is 58 per cent of the blend and takes inspiration from those made in Graves, Bordeaux. Lithe and fine with aromas and flavours of pine needles, hay, gooseberries, lemon zest and grapefruit, then creamy on the palate, it's a nifty match to burnt-butter grilled whiting. Try frasergallopestate.com.au.

UP TO $40

McHenry Hohnen Rocky Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 $40

McHenry Hohnen's single-vineyard Rocky Road chardonnay is a favourite although I was surprised how forward the colour seemed on this 2011 - quite golden but fresh as anything and perhaps more a reflection of oxidative handling in the winemaking. It's tight on the palate, has almost bitey acidity, with the tell-tale Margaret River grapefruit character, zesty and zingy. There's a lusciousness, too, with lemon curd, ginger nut biscuit, nutty and savoury. Definitely to be enjoyed with drunken chicken. From King & Godfree.

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SPLURGE

Vasse Felix Heytesbury 2010 $90

Virginia Willcock believes her 2010 cabernets are the most exciting to date, one of which is the flagship Heytesbury. This is a stunning wine and so youthful, ideally it should be cellared for several years before trying. It opens with a heady aroma of florals and cassis, with a hint of Margaret River crushed mint mingling with cinnamon and spicy oak. It's beautifully structured, full-bodied but not heavy, with ripe, defined tannins that will mellow over time. Superbly balanced and delicious. Released on May 1; available at Armadale Cellars.

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