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What to drink ... wines from Piedmont

The north-west produces some of Italy's finest wines, from crisp whites to thrilling reds.

Jane Faulkner

The picturesque Piedmont region produces some of Italy's finest wines.
The picturesque Piedmont region produces some of Italy's finest wines.iStock

UNDER $45

Vietti Arneis 2011 $43

Vietti is one of Italy's finest producers, focusing on single vineyards that produce distinctive barbera and barolo, along with a benchmark arneis. Vietti, with Bruno Giacosa, was responsible for ensuring the variety's survival - it was heading towards extinction in the '70s. We should thank them because arneis is a wonderful variety that produces a fresh, zingy drink with texture. The 2011 is very pure, with hints of citrus, pear, florals, spice with snappy acidity and texture that rounds out the palate. A delicious drink on its own or with saltimbocca. Try Boccaccio Cellars.

UNDER $50

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E. Pira & Figli Chiara Boschis Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2010 $50

Chiara Boschis is a talented small-scale producer of very good barolo but also barbera and dolcetto, the two other great reds of Piedmont. The 2010 barbera has an enticing dark-purple colour and is brimming with juicy, tangy dark fruit, especially blueberries, with an attractive woodsy, spice note with its bright acidity tempered by soft tannins. This barbera is one of those unfussy reds yet a terrific drink with plenty of substance to last at least five years. Try vinoitaliano.com.au.

OVER $50

Azelia Barolo 2008 $77

One of the appealing characteristics of barolo is its perfume and this '08 is a complex mix of dark-red and Morello cherries, smoky, tarry, ferrous with a touch of eucalypt and loads of spice. The tannins are surprisingly sweet yet grippy and tooth-coating, and there's plenty of cleansing acidity to cut through a large dish of beef ragu. While barolo often needs cellaring, and this will certainly evolve over the next seven years, this '08 is approachable now, especially after a decant. From Randall the Wine Merchant, Geelong.

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G. D. Vajra Barolo Bricco Delle Viole 2007 $165

Winemakers Aldo Vaira and son Giuseppe are thoughtful producers who care about the land they farm, the vines that grow on it and how best to express that fruit through gentle handling in the winery. Bricco delle Viole is a single-vineyard barolo and Vajra's flagship wine for good reason: it's limited, age-worthy and a very fine wine. It's still young, so to enjoy now, decant and give it time to open up. There's a heady bouquet, dense ripe cherry and plum fruit, a hint of orange peel, liquorice and more. From Enoteca Sileno.

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