What to drink ... with mushrooms
Strong flavours are an ideal match for the fleshy earthiness of our favourite fungi.
UNDER $25
Kilikanoon Mort's Block Watervale Riesling, $24
Plenty of whites work well with mushrooms and one of the best is riesling, especially with Chinese-inspired dishes. A bowl of spicy hot and sour mushroom soup demands a glass of zippy riesling. Kilikanoon Mort's Block fits the bill. Smells wonderful – like a once-parched road that's just been drenched, savoury with a smidge of lemon curd and zest. It comes alive on the palate with clean flavours, slate-like and textural. No need to chill it too much. A fabulous Watervale riesling. At Smith Street Cellars, Fitzroy.
UNDER $40
Freeman Secco Rondinella Corvina 2009, $35
This is unique in Australia – to make it, Dr Brian Freeman drew inspiration from great Italian reds from Valpolicella, namely amarone, made from rondinella and corvina grapes, so he did the same here. It's a terrific wine with ripe compote fruit, fresh, lovely texture with dusty plump Italianate tannins and lots of spice. I make a braised-mushroom dish, simply pine mushrooms, shiitake and enoki topped with some shaved bottarga (cured mullet roe). Secco complements it brilliantly. From freemanvineyards.com.au.
UNDER $40
Fletcher the Minion Nebbiolo 2011, $38
Nebbiolo is one of the best wines to enjoy with fungi, especially porcini. I make a risotto with dried porcini preserved in oil, matched with this nebbiolo as it's my favourite at the moment. Dave Fletcher makes several nebbiolo, including one from its home, Piedmont. The Minion is a blend of fruit sourced from the King Valley, Pyrenees and Yarra Valley, and what a delicious drink it is. It has a heady perfume, with sweet cherry and plum fruit on the palate, lovely tannins and enough acidity to cut through the risotto's richness. From Blackhearts & Sparrows.
SPLURGE
Epis Pinot Noir Macedon Ranges 2010, $70
I have long loved Epis' pinot noirs because they strike the right balance between structure and power with purity of fruit and definition. Of course, it does matter when the fruit is grown; this is from Alessandro Epis' property at Woodend with vines close to 20 years old. It's beautifully fragrant, full of florals, forest floor, earthy with orange zest, rich and full-bodied yet tempered by lively acidity and very precise yet round tannins. Classy and approachable now yet properly cellared will easily age another 10 years. From Woodend Wine Store.