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What to drink ... with tapas

A hot and spicy menu offering great variety and those punchy Spanish flavours needs a bright array of simple but zingy wines to match.

Jane Faulkner

A hot and spicy tapas feast needs bright and zingy wine.
A hot and spicy tapas feast needs bright and zingy wine.Marco Del Grande

UNDER $20

Picante Espana Costa Atlantica Vino Blanco 2010, $14

Plenty of Iberian-style restaurants offer tapas to kick-start a night, or day, of feasting. I prefer just grazing with tapas, as it's a neat way to taste different textures and flavours. And wine to match all that? Keep it simple, inexpensive yet zingy and fresh, which is exactly what Picante Espana's vino blanco is all about. A tangy, savoury blend of Spanish varieties including verdejo and viura that has an intriguing salt-bush character, flinty and lively on the palate, with a hint of musk and clean citrus. From Port Melbourne IGA.

UNDER $20

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Sanchez Romate Marismeno Fino 375ml, $19

I dream of Casa Ciuccio's anchovy montadito - an anchovy wedged between finger-size pieces of grilled bread and drizzled in olive oil. And while all the wines featured work with tapas, dry sherry is the best match. Sanchez Romate is an outstanding producer of sherry, although it's better known for its brandies. From the marismeno solera (the way sherry is made), this fino is dry as it should be, yet delicate with its hint of camomile, grilled nuts and salty palate. It's a much fuller flavoured fino than some. From Rathdowne Cellars.

UNDER $30

Port Phillip Estate Salasso Rosé 2012, $24

Dry rosé is a great all-rounder with tapas, whether we're talking seafood, Catalonian-style salami or stuffed pimentos. It's not complicated and the acidity can cut through all the tasty fatty bits in the salami while not dominating any lighter dishes. Port Phillip Estate's Salasso is delicious - made from shiraz - with its slick texture, rose jelly and strawberry fragrance plus spice. There's very fine acidity, quite luscious with a touch of fruit sweetness before a seemingly dry finish. Love its enticing onion-skin hue, too. From Port Phillip Estate, Red Hill.

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UNDER $30

S. C. Pannell Tempranillo Touriga McLaren Vale 2011, $25

When first opened, this juicy red was reductive and closed, so it needs lots of air to allow the bright fruit, spice and smoky notes to come to the fore. It's best to decant it - and it will be even better the next day. It's medium-bodied with an appealing earthy, woodsy character, jubey red liquorice, too, and a hint of florals. Very youthful, thus the tannins are grippy and there's a leanness to this vintage; plus it has plenty of tangy acidity, so enjoy with crusty bread and chunks of fried morcilla. From Blackhearts and Sparrows.

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