Winding road to Wairarapa a capital idea
The wine district known in New Zealand as "the Wairarapa", and more often outside New Zealand after its main wine town Martinborough, is less than an hour-and-a-half from Wellington by road. Driving there from the capital involves winding in a north-easterly direction through the ruggedly beautiful Rimutaka range. The road is good, the scenery impressive, and while it's not quite as precipitous as some of the alpine roads of the South Island, it does require concentration and nerve, especially when there's a big truck coming the other way.
Descending through the hills above the town of Featherston, on the other side of the range from Wellington, a plain unfolds before you, leading to the quiet little hamlet of Martinborough, famous (sort of) for its Union Jack street plan, and latterly for its cluster of famous vineyards.
Martinborough isn't the only place with vineyards in the area, and the district's most historic vineyard site is actually near the town of Masterton, 30 kilometres to the north. At Masterton, William Beetham planted a successful small vineyard in 1883, but a campaign by local teetotallers and spoilsports succeeded in having the vineyard pulled out in 1905. No more vines were planted in the Wairarapa until the first Martinborough vineyard was established in 1978 by publisher Alister Taylor. Masterton's renaissance came when David Bloomfield planted what is now the Solstone Estate in 1981.
This rebirth of Wairarapa wine growing came in response to research by scientist Dr Derek Milne that especially highlighted Martinborough's suitability as a potential source of high-quality European-style table wines. By the mid-1980s a number of quality-oriented vineyards had been established with pinot noir as the key red wine variety. Among them was Martinborough Vineyard, founded by a partnership including the aforementioned Dr Milne. It was spectacular pinot noir from this estate that first had wine people in Australia taking notice of the region, making Australian-born winemaker Larry McKenna a new star of downunder pinot noir. Other great pinots followed, and names like Ata Rangi, Palliser, Escarpment and Dry River roll easily off the tongues of pinot lovers on both sides of the Tasman. The best wines have depth, richness and beautifully sustained flavour, capturing pinot noir's elusive mysteries well.
Wairarapa and Martinborough's vineyards aren't just about pinot noir. Other grape varieties do well in this part of Wellington's hinterland. Sauvignon blanc, New Zealand's (and Australia's) favourite white wine grape, features in most wineries' portfolios and the style is aromatic and perfumed, lively and succulent. Riesling can be superb, sometimes with a little suggestion of sweetness adding dimension – Dry River is a standout. Pinot gris has opulence and richness – try Escarpment to see just how impressive it can be. Chardonnay is fine and elegant with superb complexity, and rarely better than Ata Rangi's version.
These inland vineyards of the Wellington region make a great touring destination, even if negotiating the road across the Rimutakas requires care. Everywhere the hospitality is excellent, and the wineries welcome visitors with good humour and professionalism. Good restaurants and cafes are easy to find, as is quality accommodation. Nearby towns like Greytown have a quirky, artistic charm of their own, and scenery that ranges through rolling hills, meadowland, hillside and valley offers something for everyone.