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Wine guide: A lighter-bodied De Bortoli Villages chardonnay shows great drinkability

Huon Hooke
Huon Hooke

Sandpiper riesling from Eden Valley.
Sandpiper riesling from Eden Valley.Supplied

Wine of the week

De Bortoli Villages Chardonnay, Yarra Valley 2014 $22

Score 92

RinQuinQuin a la Peche Aperitif, France
RinQuinQuin a la Peche Aperitif, FranceSupplied
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A lovely, lighter-bodied chardonnay of great drinkability and charm. There are grapefruit and lemon aromas, hints of passionfruit, and the palate is soft and juicy and shows minimal oak. A thoroughly modern chardonnay; great value. (12.5 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Best now to six years.

Food Mixed sashimi platter.

Castagna Adam's Rib The Red Nebbiolo Shiraz, Beechworth
Castagna Adam's Rib The Red Nebbiolo Shiraz, BeechworthSupplied

Stockists See debortoli.com.au; wine to be released within days.

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Longview Queenie Pinot Grigio, Adelaide Hills 2015 $19.50

Score 90

Frankland Estate Olmo's Reward, Frankland River
Frankland Estate Olmo's Reward, Frankland RiverSupplied

This spicy, floral, honeyed dry white wine has a fuller, richer palate than most grigios but no matter: it's a delicious mouthful of wine. There's a touch of viscosity in contrast with fresh acidity which keeps it lively on the palate. (12.9 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Best now to four years.

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Food Stuffed zucchini flowers.

Shingleback Davey Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale
Shingleback Davey Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren ValeSupplied

Stockists include Kemenys (NSW); McCoppins (Vic).

Under $20

Thorn-Clarke Sandpiper Riesling, Eden Valley 2015 $19

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Derwent Estate Late Harvest Riesling, Tasmania
Derwent Estate Late Harvest Riesling, TasmaniaSupplied

Score 93

Dried flower and straw aromas mingle with a touch of spice; the wine is very intense and yet also delicate in the mouth, with refined texture and a long persistence. The track record shows it will also age well. Good value. (12 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Drink now to five years.

Longview Queenie Pinot Grigio, Adelaide Hills
Longview Queenie Pinot Grigio, Adelaide HillsSupplied
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Food Deep-fried garfish.

Stockists include Jim's Cellars (NSW); Smith Street Cellars (Vic).

$20-$35

De Bortoli Villages Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
De Bortoli Villages Chardonnay, Yarra ValleySupplied

Derwent Estate Late Harvest Riesling, Tasmania 2015 $25

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Score 95

This has a most appealing spicy, limy fragrance with a tea-leafy note. The palate has richness as well as sweetness and good depth, lingering well. The acidity is soft and in harmony with the sweetness and fruit flavour. (10 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Drink now to nine years.

Food Fruit salad and ice-cream.

Stockists include Elizabeth Bay Cellars (NSW); Vintage Blue ().

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$20-$35

Shingleback Davey Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2013 $24

Score 92

Another amazing bargain from the Davey family of Shingleback. With its deep rich colour and inviting ripe berry and licorice aromas, this wine has intensity and concentration, density and length, fleshiness and drive. Keen value. (14.4 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Best in two to 18 years.

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Food Barbecued T-bone steak.

Stockists include Dan Murphy's and First Choice stores nationwide.

Indulge yourself

Frankland Estate Olmo's Reward, Frankland River 2013 $50

Score 93

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This blend of 66 per cent cabernet franc, 27 per cent malbec and 7 per cent cabernet sauvignon is bright and youthful, fresh and appealing with violet and berry aromas tinged with nutty oak. The palate is tight, elegant and medium-full bodied. It's young and undeveloped and promises much if cellared a few years. (13.5 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? Best in two to 20 years.

Food Grilled lamb cutlets.

Stockists include City Wine Shop (Vic); Prince Wine Store (NSW).

Indulge yourself

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Castagna Adam's Rib The Red Nebbiolo Shiraz, Beechworth 2013 $35

Score 93

A 70/30 nebbiolo/shiraz blend, not really expressing either variety but a very good red wine. Rich aromas include dark chocolate, dark berries, dried herbs and spices. It's lush and rich to taste, fleshy and almost opulent, the tannins very present but smooth and fine-grained. (13.5 per cent alcohol; Diam cork.)

Ageing? Best now to 15 years.

Food Barbecued, marinated quail.

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Stockist See castagna.com.au; cellar door 03 5728 2888.

Something else

RinQuinQuin a la Peche Aperitif, France $40.90

From Provence, this is an extremely moreish wine-based aperitif with hi-fi peach aroma and flavour, intense and true to type. The sweetness is well balanced. It makes a delectable drink when mixed with 2/3 tonic water. Serve with ice. Store in the fridge. (15 per cent alcohol; screw cap.)

Ageing? No.

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Food Serve as an aperitif.

Stockists include Liquor on Oxfordt (NSW); The Wigs Cellar (Vic); Spirits of France spiritsoffrance.com.au.

Huon HookeHuon Hooke is a wine writer.

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