Wine review: Katnook Estate Founder's Block Coonawarra Shiraz 2015

Katnook Estate Founder's Block Coonawarra Shiraz 2015 $16-$20

Cabernet remains the main game in Coonawarra, but shiraz, present in the area since the earliest days, at its best makes fine-boned, long-lived reds. The earlier wines, when little oak was used, showed the way with this variety. Winemakers rediscovered the beauty of those early wines this century, following a period in the '90s when oak and extractive winemaking swamped the inherent fruit quality of many wines. Katnook's entry-level shiraz represents the riper end of the Coonawarra spectrum with a distinctive jam-like fruitiness to love or hate.