Wine reviews from Chris Shanahan - Bowen Estate, Zeppelin and Heartland

Bowen Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 $28.49-$35

Doug Bowen tends the vines and daughter Emma makes the wines. The much-loved, distinctive reds sit at the burly end of Coonawarra's generally elegant style. In the warm 2013 vintage, that means an inky deep, ripe expression of cabernet. Remarkably, despite the wine's power and richness, it retains pure cabernet varietal flavours, reminiscent of cassis, with no sign of porty, over-ripe character. It's saturated with deep, luscious fruit flavour and, despite its 15.5 per cent alcohol content, retains Coonawarra's distinguishing elegant structure. Provided the cork seal holds, it should evolve for many years in a cool cellar. Dear Doug and Emma, please switch to screw cap.

Zeppelin Eden Valley Riesling 2014 $17–$21

Typical of the 2014 vintage, Zeppelin riesling offers loads of upfront fruit flavour. The floral and citrus aroma suggests a wine of great richness, and the palate obliges. Here the citrus element of riesling's varietal character takes over, both in its lemon-lime flavour and a sharp, thrilling cut and bite, like fresh-squeezed lemon juice. The lemony twist, however, never descends into sourness. Rather, it creates a delicious tension with the sweet, juicy, grape flavours. Like most Eden Valley rieslings of this calibre, Zeppelin should evolve in bottle for four or five years in the right conditions.

Heartland Langhorne Creek Shiraz 2013 $18-$20

Heartland's owners, Ben Glaetzer, Grant Tilbrook and Scott Collett acknowledge the influence of Glaetzer's uncle, John Glaetzer, in drawing most of their fruit from Langhorne. As long-time Wolf Blass winemaker, John Glaetzer exploited the clear varietal character and plush mid-palate of the region's red varieties. John now assesses and buys grapes for Heartland and nephew Ben makes the wines. In the warm 2013 vintage, Heartland shiraz shows the rich, ripe and soft side of shiraz, with sufficient tannin to give structure and drinking satisfaction.