Wine reviews from Chris Shanahan

Hewitson Gun Metal Eden Valley Riesling 2014 $25–$28

The imminent 2015 riesling vintage reminds us just how well good, dry rieslings evolve in their first year. Dean Hewitson's 2014 now reveals the sheer, juicy drinking pleasure of this Eden Valley specialty. Six or eight months' bottle age allows the full power of the fruit flavour to emerge from the grip of high acidity. The acidity remains, of course. But over time it moves to the background, giving a tingling, refreshing edge to the riesling's intense-but-delicate, lime-like flavour. The wine should hold for many years, gradually deepening in colour from pale lemon to golden and taking on new, toasty and honeyed flavours.

A. C. Byrnes Le Premier Margaret River Chardonnay 2014 $12.99

Aldi's Le Premier is about as French as a herd of le kangaroos. The wine, however, drinks better than the $12.99 price tag suggests. That's the company's marketing strategy for its wide range of made-up wine brands. And from what I've tasted they're doing it well. Le Premier bounds kangaroo-like on to the palate, giving a solid impact of chardonnay flavours: ripe and full-bodied, with nectarine and citrus-like varietal flavours, strong, accompanying barrel-derived flavours and a mildly astringent, dry finish. What it lacks in finesse, it makes up for in enjoyable, upfront varietal flavours.

Hesketh Barossa Valley Tempranillo 2013 $25

In about 1979, Barossa winemaker Peter Lehmann and his friend, Robert Hesketh, established Masterson Wines, the ancestor of what is now Peter Lehmann Wines. A third of a century later, following in their fathers' footsteps, Jonathon Hesketh and winemaker Phil Lehmann established the Hesketh label. This red, sourced from the Barossa Valley's Rosedale sub-region, provides a full-throttle, all-fruit expression of Spain's tempranillo. The colour's deep, with a brilliant crimson rim. The palate pulses with ripe, dark-fruit flavours. And just when it seems to be all about fruit, tempranillo's assertive tannins push through, giving the wine its savoury, dry finish.