The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Wine reviews from Chris Shanahan

Chris Shanahan

Kaiora Bay Reserve Central Otago Pinot Noir 2013 $14.99

Marlborough, New Zealand's biggest, most valuable wine region, accounts for a remarkable $NZ1 billion of the country's $NZ1.3 billion wine exports. Sauvignon blanc makes up 86 per cent of Marlborough's wine production, while pinot noir, the No. 2 variety, claims only 6per cent. Several degrees south of Marlborough in Central Otago, pinot noir accounts for 70 per cent of vine plantings, albeit on a smaller scale than Marlborough. The region makes a comparatively robust pinot style, with savoury and dark-fruit varietal flavours and quite strong tannins. Aldi's own label provides a sound introduction to the style at a fair price.

St John's Road Motley Bunch Barossa Valley GSM 2013 $18–$22

Barossa winemaker Phil Lehmann and marketer Jonathon Hesketh collaborate on a number of wine labels, including Hesketh and St John's Road. In Motley Bunch they bring together three time-proven Barossa varieties, grenache, shiraz and mataro (aka mourvedre). The inviting blend delivers the bright, ripe, juicy flavours of the warm 2013 vintage. Grenache provides musk-like high notes and plush fruit; shiraz contributes body, colour and structure; and mataro brings savoury character and firm tannins. The three work together to produce wonderful warm, earthy, fruity drinking pleasure.

Port Phillip Estate Mornington Peninsula Sauvignon 2014 $26

Marlborough New Zealand produces vast quantities of dazzling, fresh sauvignon blanc with consummate ease. Elsewhere the variety tends to make leaner wine styles, requiring careful input from winemakers to put a bit of meat on the bone. On the Mornington Peninsula, Sandro Mosel applies a couple of winemaking tricks to the local grapes and comes up with a most enjoyable drink. Spontaneous fermentation with ambient yeasts, fermentation of a portion in old oak barrels, and several months' maturation on spent yeast cells all contribute to aroma, flavour and, most of all, texture. The result: a fleshy, smooth textured sauvignon of outstanding quality.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement