A food lover's weekend in Hobart

Heading down to MONA? You're not the only one. Almost a million people have visited Hobart's Museum of Old and New Art since it opened in January 2011. But don't get so absorbed with cutting-edge art that you forget to eat and drink. Hobart's cafe and restaurant scene is going from strength-to-strength as it celebrates Tasmania's fresh produce, wine and spirits. Here's a dining guide to help you make the most of your weekend in the Apple Isle's capital.

A Friday night arrival

If you've flown down to Hobart from the mainland early evening you'll be needing a drink and bite to eat. Grab a taxi into town, drop off your luggage and head to historic Salamanca Place on the waterfront. Vibe on a Friday evening? A mix of people from their early 20s to middle-aged professionals letting loose after a long week.

Top pick: Grape Bar & Bottle Shop

This is a great spot to unwind with a glass of local wine. We tried (and loved) the 2009 Vintner's Reserve riesling from Observatory Hill, located just outside Hobart. There's plenty of outdoor seating (heated), pizzas and tapas dishes.

Details: 55 Salamanca Place, 03 6224 0611.

For something a bit different: Lark Distillery

Tasmania is fast becoming a go-to destination for whiskey lovers and the Lark Distillery's cellar door near Hobart's waterfront is a great spot to spend a few hours, particularly on a Friday night when there's live Bluegrass music (6-8pm) to help wash down an award-winning single malt. There's more than 100 whiskies available by the shot or half shot as well as pub-grub on Friday nights on the lawn out back.

Details: 14 Davey Street, Hobart, 03 6231 9088, http://www.larkdistillery.com.au

Late-night pit stop: La Bella Pizza

Kitchen closed at Grape Bar? Central Hobart looking like a ghost town at 10pm? Never fear. La Bella Pizza serves thick-crust, generously-cheesy pizzas by the slice. Just the thing when you've over-indulged with wine. Best of all, it's open until 2am on Friday night and 4am on Saturday.

Details: 67 Murray Street, central Hobart, 03 6234 8848.

Saturday: markets, museums and more

Best for breakfast: Pidgeon Hole cafe

What better way to kick off your foodie weekend than a leisurely breakfast at one of Hobart's best cafes? Pigeon Hole has gathered a loyal following among locals so get in early to nab a seat (there aren't many, as the name suggests). Located in hilly West Hobart, a 15-minute walk from town centre, Pigeon Hole is one of those cafes where the only problem is choosing: think baked eggs with jamon, soused onion and a generous sprinkling of herbs and grana padano. The eggs are still plenty-gooey, so thank goodness for the chef's fresh-baked sourdough - perfect for sopping up. The rye and spelt porridge (with raisins, hazelnuts and agave) was “the best porridge” my friend has eaten. Also popular, the “hot daug” - a goat and chicken liver sausage with apple slaw, coriander and Kewpie mayonnaise on a brioche bun.

Details: 93 Goulburn Street, West Hobart, 03 6236 9036, http://pigeonholecafe.com.au

For a caffeine hit: Villino Espresso

Expect all the bells and whistles at this specialty coffee roaster, including single-origins beans brewed any which way you like.

Details: 30 Criterion Street, Hobart, 03 6231 0890, http://www.villino.com.au. Closed Sundays.

Picnic supplies

It's good to have a mission when exploring markets. Make yours stocking up on lunch fare for the ferry trip to MONA, or if you're driving, a picnic to eat en route. There's rustic loaves, mouth-watering cheeses and apples that burst with flavour.

Details: Salamanca Place, every Saturday, 8.30am-3pm.

Also try: A Common Ground

While ambling along Salamanca Place it's worth sticking your head in at the Tassie produce shop owned by Bruny Island Cheese Co's Nick Haddow and Matthew Evans from SBS TV show Gourmet Farmer. The morning we were there Evans was holding court, spruiking Bruny's raw milk C2 cheese; a hard, bitey cheese that went perfectly with our market-bought bread.

Details: Shop 3, Salamanca Arts centre, 77 Salamanca Place. http://acommonground.com.au

Fine dining, Hobart style: Garagistes

A weekend in Hobart would not be complete without a meal at one of the city's "it-restaurants".

Garagistes, one of Australia's most exciting eateries, is located on a nondescript stretch of street just out of central Hobart. Inside, it's all it's cracked up to be with a young team of chefs working wonders with fresh Tasmanian produce and helpful staff dashing between long communal tables. The highlight of our dinner was an unlikely looking pot of baked potato puree; the sort of dish that has you asking to see the menu again. “What were those flavours?” Answer: Prune essence, plum kernel oil and black garlic.

The extensive wine list is also notable for its focus on organic and biodynamic wines.

Details: 103 Murray Street, Hobart. 03 6231 0558, http://www.garagistes.com.au.

Also try: Ethos

Housed inside the 1830s-built Ash Chemist and Druggist building Ethos also focuses on sourcing quality local produce with a daily-changing menu.

Details: 100 Elizabeth Street, 03 6231 1165, http://ethoseatdrink.com

A cruisy Sunday

To market, to market (for breakfast)

Held in a car park, the Tas Farm Gate Market is a small, but lovely food market with a range of fresh produce from boutique suppliers. It's the real-deal as far as farmers' markets go. There's huge cheese wheels at the Elgaar Dairy stall, fresh-baked Euro style pastries, honey from Sweet and Raw and Wallaby burritos at Pacha Mama Mexican. As for breakfast, forget egg and bacon rolls, and head to the Urban Bounty pie stall for a Tassie speciality, the scallop pie. A buttery pastry shell houses fresh Bass Strait scallops and a sauce made from mirepoix, milk, cream, curry powder and a dash of Worcestershire.

Details: Tas Farm Gate Market, 49 Melville Street (near corner Elizabeth). Sundays 9am-1pm.

Still hungry?

At the foot of Murray Street overlooking the waterfront, is Daci & Daci Bakers. Check out the beautifully-wrapped gourmet rocky road, giant meringues and boxes of exotically-flavoured biscotti. If there's any room left for lunch, savoury options inside include pissaladiere, large puff-pastry slabs topped with anchovy, olives and caramelised onion.

Details: 11 Murray Street, Hobart, 03 6224 9237.

If you want to take your car to Hobart, the Spirit of Tasmania departs Melbourne's Station Pier daily and arrives in Devonport 6am. Details: spiritoftasmania.com.au