Byways and back bars

It's official. Not every hidden restaurant, bar and cafe in Melbourne and the inner suburbs is down a laneway. No, you don't need to sacrifice your heel to a crack between bluestones or deal with picking broken glass out of your shoe sole while searching for a hidden bar. Thankfully, Melbourne's hidden spots are getting more and more out there: think taking to the skies above established restaurants and bars, hiding in rooms behind bright and welcoming eateries, and even plonking in the middle of a river. However, the ''secret'' aspect of laneway life remains sacred, and given the high number of drinking venues in this fair city, it's quite ironic that many of Melbourne's newer venues - laneway location or not - are taking on an illicit air through their speakeasy approach. It's all about adventure and intrigue, and we're loving it.

Bar Americano

20 Presgrave Place, city.
facebook/baramericanomel
8am-1am

Off Howey Place between Collins and Little Collins streets (and Swanston and Elizabeth streets), this magical speck of space offers coffee by day and cocktails from a dapper mixologist by night. It's marked by an illuminated Italian ''Tabacchi'' sign on its front door, although, unlike its Italian counterparts, it sells neither bus tickets nor cigarettes (strangely enough, you can't smoke inside and you can't take your drinks outside). Since it's the only thing (apart from milk crates) down the lane, once you get there, you're almost obliged to go in, and despite its intimate feel, you'll be welcomed like a local and sipping on a tailor-made cocktail in no time.

Hidden rating ★★★★★

I Know a Place

451 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy.
Thurs-Sat, 5pm-1am; Sun, 2-9pm

There's no sign at all. Nup, nothing to let you know that behind the average-looking door hides a small bar with a much larger beer garden. I Know a Place is somewhere you really need to know about. You're unlikely to stumble upon it in passing because, despite its Brunswick Street address, it's actually in busy Alexandra Parade behind a Brunswick Street chemist. Its presence is indicated only by a light beaming down above the door when it's open. Step inside and you'll find a menu of hot dogs, cocktails and boutique beers, and a large garden complete with a huge graffiti mural. DJs or bands often compete with the Alexandra Parade traffic for attention.

Hidden rating ★★★★★

Naked in the Sky

285 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy.
nakedforsatan.com.au
Sun-Thurs, noon-midnight; Fri-Sat, noon-1am

Despite being able to see the sparkling lights of Naked in the Sky all the way from the top of Brunswick Street, from the front, the only indication there's something seriously cool on Naked for Satan's roof is the presence of burly bouncers at the door and a queue of people waiting for the lift. In fact, one can nibble the $1-$2 pintxos at the original restaurant downstairs without an inkling of the stunning vista on the fourth level. A rooftop restaurant serves Basque ''peasant comfort food'' upstairs (your cheap pintxos are forbidden to accompany you in the lift).

Hidden rating ★★★★★

Bill's Bar

104 Smith Street, Collingwood.
Tues-Sun, 6-11pm

Burger bar Huxtaburger is leaving big teeth marks in Smith Street, but the little-known bar behind it (well, alongside it) has had a slower burn. To get into this suave speakeasy, you enter Huxtaburger and push a silver door behind the service area (by the ATM, to be precise). There's a little sign above the door in cinema lettering to help you on your way. Bill's Bar has just relaxed its no-burger policy, so feel free to order at Huxtaburger's counter, slip secretly into Bill's, and await delivery of your food. Match it with a whisky or cocktail. Airconditioned, private bliss.

Hidden rating ★★★★★

Siglo

Level 2/161 Spring Street, city.
Tues-Fri, 5pm-3am; Sat-Mon, 8pm-3am

Push through the heavy door of the Melbourne Supper Club, climb the set of stairs, look around, then make your way up another set of stairs - oh, and another - and you'll be catching your breath at this delightful rooftop bar. Cigar smokers stink up the place, but it's big enough to escape the fumes and enjoy the views over Parliament House. It's almost an all-weather venue thanks to a new retractable roof, though looking up at the old Princess Theatre artwork is one of the pleasures of this splendid setting.

Hidden rating ★★★★

Colonel Tan's

Upstairs, 229 Chapel Street, Prahran.
coloneltans.com.au
Tues-Sat, 5-11pm; Fri, from noon

If you don't go to nightclubs, it can be a strange feeling to climb Revolver's infamous steps at 6pm, but don't fret. No, you're not going for a grungy boogie; you're heading to cavernous restaurant Colonel Tan's. Delicious and cheap (certainly cheaper than its sister restaurant, city-centre fave Cookie), the setting has a certain share-house feel about it. Eat late on a Saturday night and you'll watch with interest as the couches and retro tables get carried away before your eyes. Why? They're being moved to make space for a non-stop 54-hour disco. Ah, suddenly the wire cages protecting the DJ and grog bottle-lined bar make sense. Quick, escape!

Hidden rating ★★★★

Cicciolina Back Bar

130 Acland Street, St Kilda.
cicciolinastkilda.com.au
5pm-1am

In unusual fashion, you can't get to Cicciolina's Back Bar through the main entrance of Cicciolina. Instead, you walk right past it until you see a glowing ''Dentist'' sign. Turn down the modern fluoro-lit lane, checking midway for a shopfront with '50s venetian blinds meeting frosted glass. You'll find ''Cicciolina'' and its hours printed tidily on the door and glass. Off the beaten track, this bar is a favourite for St Kilda locals. There's loads of leather seating, including three large, intimate, padded-leather booths. Order from the bar menu and enjoy the ambience. This is also a great spot to have an aperitif while waiting for a seat at the main restaurant.

Hidden rating ★★★

The Croft Institute

21 Croft Alley, city.
thecroftinstitute.com
Mon-Sat, from 5pm

After dark, one thought persists as you walk past the stinking rubbish bins and turn the blind corners of Croft Alley: ''Are you sure there's a bar down here? I'm going to die!'' But you come to its dead end, find the bar and realise you are still alive (unless it's closed, then you have to renegotiate the lonely path back to Little Bourke Street). The medically themed bar is possibly best known for its ''department of hygiene'' (toilets) and plastic syringes in the drinks. The Croft Institute claims to be the ''first of Melbourne's laneway bars'', and while its heady days of being the new thing (it's been around since the start of the century) may be over, it's an interesting spot for impressing visitors or science students.

Hidden rating ★★★

Switchboard

Manchester Unity Building, 220 Collins St, city.
Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm; Sat, 9am-3pm

Split into two, divided by an ancient (OK, circa 1932) path through the modern Gothic-styled Manchester Unity Building, is Switchboard. What was once a switchboard is now possibly the teensiest cafe in Melbourne. How staff make magic in such a confined space we'll never know. Across the path you can sip your great coffee in an almost-as-small shopfront. As well as coffee, Switchboard is known for its toast and amazing array of toppings, its bright wallpaper, mismatched dainty crockery, and friendly service. If you don't nab the shopfront spot, you can sit in the alley. Tres Melbourne.

Hidden rating ★★★

Little King

4/209 Flinders Lane, city.
littlekingcafe.com
Mon-Fri, 7.30am-3.30pm

Under the archways of St Paul's Cathedral, just off Flinders Lane, sits this sweeter-than-sweet cafe. There's a little red flag-like painted sign with ''LK'' by the door, but it's the daytime crowds that give this cafe away, as they line up for yummy lattes (dare we say better than most you'll get at nearby Centre Place or Degraves Street) and cakes baked in the oven behind the counter. It's a terrific place to stumble upon, and you get a very friendly welcome once you do.

Hidden rating ★★★

Izakaya Den

Basement, 114 Russell St, city.
izakayaden.com.au
Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm; Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-late

What is it with underground Japanese eateries? There's the difficult to find Yu-U - off a lane off Flinders Lane and downstairs - with its small plaque declaring its name and hours; then there's Izakaya Den - in a basement under a basement of a modern Russell Street building. Look for the dotted sign saying ''Den'' then head down one lot of steps. Push through a glass door on your left then push apart the heavy black curtains, go down yet more steps and you'll find an industrial underworld of drinks and fresh Japanese food.

Hidden rating ★★★

Ponyfish Island

Pedestrian Bridge, the Yarra, city.
8am-1am

On Google maps, its location seems improbable: it's right in the middle of the Yarra! But here it is, a simple cash-only bar in all its watery beauty. This stunning location, underneath the pedestrian bridge linking Flinders Street Station and Southgate, gives locals the unique ability to bamboozle visiting friends with directions. For example: ''Look for the chalked A-frame sign or fixie bikes tied up in the middle of the pedestrian bridge and head down the steps.'' If it's busy (it's often packed), the gate will be closed and, sadly, there's nowhere else like it to go.

Hidden rating ★★

The Everleigh

Level 1, 150-156 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy.
theeverleigh.com
5.30pm-1am

The hairdressing salon downstairs has more illuminated signs than the classy cocktail bar directly above it, even when it's closed. From across the road you see snatches of wall decor and the glow of candles, hinting at the seductive nature of this joint. Brave the rather ordinary entrance on Gertrude Street, pass through the second door with the etched glass, walk up the steps and you're in a New York Milk & Honey-style cocktail bar. Beautifully dressed staff guide you to your seats (it's not the kind of place where folk are inclined to stand) and the cocktail eve begins.

Hidden rating ★★

New Gold Mountain

Level 1, 21 Liverpool Street, city.
newgoldmountain.org
Tues-Fri, 5pm-late; Sat, from 6pm

Until recently, getting into this small cocktail bar was an experience in itself. First, you would need to find it by looking for a red door with the number 21 above it and a bicycle hanging from the wall. Next, you would dial the phone number by the door, asking to be let in. Then you would, with bated breath, wait for the door to open. These days, an open-door policy makes it a bit more casual, but it's still a dazzling bar with two levels (one is luscious red, one queasy green) and an exclusive vibe.

Hidden rating ★

Sign of the times

The Waiters Restaurant (20 Meyers Place, city) has been in Melbourne since 1947, but it wasn't always easy to find.

In the early days, this traditional Italian restaurant was known as the Italian Waiters' Club and diners needed a secret password to get in. Its name came from its clientele: mostly waiters who would pop in to this unmarked venue after their shift for a drink and game of cards. It went unsigned for years, but eight years ago, this changed.

Getting in is still interesting, with rickety steps leading to a choice of two doors (take the one on your left), but some still bemoan the fact The Waiters Restaurant succumbed to signage.

So why the change? According to proprietor Denis Sabbadini, it was the growth of other businesses on once-quiet Meyers Place that forced it.

''We were Melbourne's little secret, which was quite nice,'' he says. ''We were the only place on Meyers Place, but then eight or nine new businesses started up and put up their signs, and we needed to show we were there. It was the start of us becoming mainstream.''

Inside, it's still far from mainstream. Forget nouveau retro; this is the real thing, with Laminex tables, wood panelling, and a menu on a chalkboard. Sign or no sign, The Waiters Restaurant has an authenticity that designers could never replicate.