Dining with Terry Durack: Bondi's Best

SYDNEY takes its fish and chips seriously, as do chefs Joel Best and Ross Wilson, who began their careers at Pier in Rose Bay before moving to other fishy favourites, such as Flying Fish, Boathouse at Blackwattle Bay and Fish Face.

They have made this tiny space Bondi's hottest seafood stop. The beer-battered flathead with chips is everything you want fish and chips to be. The tempura prawns, the fisherman's basket, the grilled salmon burger with tartare sauce, and spicy salt and pepper cuttlefish are all excellent as well.

But Bondi's Best goes beyond the usual chippy fare with a selection of well-crafted sashimi, sushi and inside-out rolls from seasoned sushi chef Hirofumi Fujita.

The place is cunningly casual, with a few counter stools and outside tables, a small but serviceable beer and wine list, and a decent view to the waves. But don't worry if you can't score a table — just order takeaway and dine a la sand.

What the Good Food Guide says: "With carefully sourced seafood, a drinks licence and a sashimi chef, this may indeed be Bondi's best option for good fishy eating by the ocean."

This summer's hot order: Hiro's raw tuna san choy bau with spicy dressing, $16.90.

Shop 1, 39-53 Campbell Parade, North Bondi. Wednesday-Monday, noon- 9pm, about $45 for two, plus drinks. Phone 9300 9886, see bondisbest.com.au.