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Dining with Terry Durack: The Old Library

Terry Durack
Terry Durack

Owner Mario Kalpou in the Old Library.
Owner Mario Kalpou in the Old Library.Jane Dyson

The Old Library

THIS building was once a church, then a library, and is now a cathedral of summer consumption. Nice how it's still a place where people gather naturally.

Consultant chef Danny Russo and head chef David McGill bring an Italian beachside bent to the menu, with some offerings summer-light, such as citrus-cured snapper carpaccio, and others more substantial, such as braised then pressed lamb shoulder with sheep's milk yoghurt, peas, olives and shallots.

Or go straight to the summer-friendly "social plates" for sharing: vegetarian antipasti, salumi misti, grilled seafood, barbecued meats or cheeses. Knock back a Sicilian cannoli, then head to the beach — but no swimming for at least an hour after eating.

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The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide says: "The lovely, contemporary, light-filled space is part restaurant, part bar, with lots of cute nods to the building's bookish past."

This summer's hot order Hazelnut meringue, passionfruit curd and gelato, raspberries and cream, $14.

Unit 1/15 Surf Road, Cronulla. Lunch, Thursday-Sunday, dinner, Tuesday-Sunday, about $125 for two, plus drinks. Phone 9544 5360, theoldlibrary.com.au.

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Terry DurackTerry Durack is the chief restaurant critic for The Sydney Morning Herald and Good Food.

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