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Five of a kind: Latin American treats

Whether on their own or oozing with sweet and spicy fillings, these are heavenly offerings in any language.

Lauren Wambach

Tortillas straight off the conveyer belt at El Cielo.
Tortillas straight off the conveyer belt at El Cielo.Supplied

Tortillas

WITH no freshly baked tortillas available in Melbourne, Mexican migrant Cesar Duran had resigned himself to claggy supermarket versions. ''They were so bad, I'd just chuck them in the microwave,'' he says. ''But my friends still loved them. I thought, what would they say if they actually tasted real tortillas?'' The answer might well be ''heaven'', or in Spanish, ''el cielo'' - the name of Cesar and his partners' tortilleria. Since opening in July 2012, their diminutive production plant now supplies just about every local taqueria worth its salt. Swing by the Port Melbourne factory to buy tender, gluten-free corn tortillas as they tumble off the conveyer belt.
El Cielo, 5/177 Salmon Street, Port Melbourne, 9646 1457; 15 tortillas for $4.25-$5. Stockists include Leo's Fine Food and South Melbourne's Q Eleven, see elcielo.com.au

Pupusas

Snuggly pupusas from Los Latinos.
Snuggly pupusas from Los Latinos.Supplied
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BRITAIN has the hot-water bottle and Australia the wheat bag, but to truly cure what ails you, head to Los Latinos for soft, snuggly pupusas. These traditional El Salvadorean stuffed pancakes are homely, comforting and delicious. White maize flour dough is filled with cheese, mashed beans or seasoned pork before being tossed on a hotplate. If you can hold off for long enough, dress your pupusa up with tangy curtido coleslaw and tomato-based salsa roja. Los Latinos offers a range of dishes from central and South America, including tacos with thick house-made tortillas or soft, steamed corn tamales. Or stop by to sample Colombian corn arepas, white corn discs with smoky chorizo.
Los Latinos, 238 Union Road, Ascot Vale, 9370 6934; and 128 Mitchell Street, Maidstone, 9318 5289; four pupusas for $15.50, loslatinoscafe.com.au

Empanadas

THE lonely shopping strip it inhabits is the domain of truckies and tradies, but La Morenita is well poised to capitalise on the passing custom. It's famous for empanadas, Chile's answer to the pastie - and just the ticket for smoko. The baked version comes filled with mild beef mince or a spicy chicken mix, while its fried cousin sports a crisp, bubbled pastry shell enclosing melted cheese and perhaps prawns or rich chorizo chunks. Try the abalone empanada, an authentic and unusual Chilean taste. La Morenita makes its own Chilean-style bread, which it uses for deliciously gooey, authentic steak sandwiches, while the Uruguayan community heads there for sanguches de miga, dainty sandwich fingers perfect for parties.
La Morenita Latin Cuisine, 67 Berkshire Road, Sunshine North, 9311 2911; empanadas $2.50-$4 each, latinfoodsandwines.com.au

Arepas

IT TAKES a cool cat to cut it in south Fitzroy, and Sonido certainly fits the bill. Run by two Colombian expats and decked out with Latin ephemera (masks, maps and more), this colourful cafe specialises in arepas. This Colombian quick bread is made from coarsely ground white corn, formed into a patty and cooked on a griddle. The result is a pancake with a flavour not unlike polenta, crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle. At Sonido, try arepas topped with Cuban-style beef, shredded and gently spiced, while littlies love the arepas de queso, filled with authentic fresco cheese. The drinks menu is an adventure in itself, from Colombian hot chocolate with cheese (yes, cheese) to juice blends made from unusual South American fruit, such as lulo, mora or guanabana.
Sonido, 69 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, no phone; arepas $6-$12 each, sonido.com.au

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Pan amasado

IF YOU can tear your eyes away from the sweets oozing caramel sauce, Marciano's also offers a range of authentic Chilean breads. There are crusty marraqueta rolls, joined together like four-leaf clovers, soft hallulla buns and intriguing folded dobladas, but make sure to snap up some pan amasado. With the last stage of kneading still done by hand at this family business, these soft white rolls have a very tender crumb and are pleasantly dense without being heavy. Try them simply spread with ripe avocado or attempt a traditional Chilean churrasco sandwich, brimming with tomatoes, lettuce, steak and mayo. Shoppers shouldn't miss a tasty empanada for the drive home, either.
Marciano's Cakes, 1481 Centre Road, Clayton, 9543 5967; and 126 Mitchell Street, Maidstone, 9318 8107; pan amasado 50¢ each, marcianoscakes.com.au

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