Just Open: Arlette's Kitchen, Albion

It's a case of going back to where he started (almost) for Linton Smith. The chef and restaurateur (ex Arlette's Bistro, New Farm and the original Arlette's Kitchen, Scarborough) has moved back to the Albion neighbourhood and opened a new bistro, Arlette's Kitchen at the site recently vacated by the Providore Store. The Arlette name references Smith's first mentor, a Gold Coast restaurateur who introduced him to the joys of restaurant life and traditional French food.

Rather than the classic French bistro fare Smith has always proffered, he says this time there's a contemporary edge to the Arlette menu, interspersed with Asian flavours.

"I wanted to do something that wasn't traditional European," Smith says. "Something a bit lighter and more modern."

Most recently Smith has been on the pans at Libertine in Paddington and the Asian influence is evident in entrees of five-spiced squid with lime and ginger aioli, green papaya salad and a riff on sang choy bao with crisp chicken in lettuce cups with kimchi mayonnaise.

Francophiles will be happy that French hasn't been forsaken altogether; favourites such as duck and cognac pate, and duck with orange and star anise are on the menu alongside modern bistro dishes such as gnocchi with walnut and blue cheese sauce, goat's cheese filled tempura zucchini flowers, and roast pork belly with carrot puree and spiced honey glaze.

Open Tue-Sat noon-3pm and 6pm-9pm. Diners can BYO (corkage $4 per person) until the liquor licence comes through.

59 Albion Road, Albion, 07 3861 1534, facebook.com/Arlettes-Kitchen