Mountain of Bears brings hip vibe to a previously lifeless arcade in Ormond

Mountain of Bears
556 North Road, Ormond, 9578 9882.
Open 7am-4.30pm weekdays, 8am-5pm weekends

The owners of Ormond's hottest new daytime eatery have a dilemma. Mountain of Bears may have the funkiest name, coolest decor and most intriguing breakfast options in the village, but enthusiastic locals are asking, please sirs, may we have more?

Nir Kalif is one of three partners who have transformed a lifeless arcade off North Road, across the road from the Ormond railway station, into a buzzy, stylish space that feels like a corner of Scandinavia has found its way here by way of New York. Just six weeks after opening, its all-day breakfasts and lunches are a hit – by 10.30am on a Sunday, most of its 60 seats are filled and its eight staff are in constant motion. So what's the dilemma?

"We wanted to have this concept of the New York bagels here, but now we're debating whether to add bread," says the Israeli-born Kalif, looking genuinely troubled. "We have a lot of people who are saying, we want to have bread. I don't know why. We want to hold the guns, but we have to listen to the customers."

After selling Manchester Press in the CBD and Loco in Elsternwick, Kalif and his partners, barista Issy Shaked and chef Toshihiro Ando, have brought an inner-city vibe to this burgeoning corner of Ormond, where George Calombaris recently opened an outpost of Jimmy Grants. Along with Mountain of Bears, the enterprising trio are also building Nature Boy in Murrumbeena, named after a song by one of the area's best known natives, Nick Cave.

Locale was also key in choosing a name for their North Road eatery. "When I Googled the name Ormond, I saw the definition is mountain of bears," says Kalif. "I thought, ah, it's a cute name."

It's a name that has been on more and more local lips of late. The most popular dishes so far, Kalif says, are the chia porridge, a blend of chia seed, banana and coconut milk topped with orange yoghurt, strawberries and fruit compote ($10), and the mushrooms and hummus , served with silverbeet, avocado and poached egg ($15).

I can't go past the smoked salmon and herb rillettes ($14), the flakes of strongly flavoured fish beautifully balanced by the zing of dill in a flavoursome and filling start to the day. Served in a glass, it comes with a toasted bagel and a side of rocket and fresh lemon.

The open bagel with barbecue pulled pork, salad and house-made slaw is a more substantial affair. Piled high with slow-cooked pork shoulder, and a bargain at $15, it easily straddles the late-morning, breakfast/lunch divide. Kid-friendly options include the decadent and delicious Sweet Bear ($9), a toasted bagel with Nutella or peanut butter served with banana, strawberries and a side of ricotta. Gluten-free bagels, a rarity on most breakfast menus, are also available.

The decor is a clever mix of Scandi minimalist and New-York bold, with tables and cabinets of recycled timber and polished concrete floors enlivened by bright yellow tiles. Against clean white walls, a series of pinball-machine back screens, box-framed and illuminated from behind, have been transformed into wall art. With tables and potted plants spilling out into the arcade, the cafe makes the most of its tucked-away location off the main street, giving diners an indoor-outdoor option away from the traffic but still warmed by outdoor heating.

"Because we're tucked away, we were a bit worried," Kalif says. . "When we opened the door, we thought, oh no, what have we done? Even people who live around here didn't know about the arcade."

But with a liquor licence in the offing, and a growing list of devoted locals, this is one mountain that is well worth the climb.