Restaurant review: Ellacure, Canberra

Ellacure opened. So much has changed in the local restaurant scene since then.

Parlour ignited the NewActon area and then, well, was ignited. The Trimboli family opened up Braddon as our premier food destination, Brodburger was tamed and moved to a permanent place on the foreshore of Kingston, another new area that is still to define itself. Ben Willis came home and has pretty well dominated the pack at Aubergine and Temporada. Gus Armstrong, who was here at Ellacure when I first came, moved into town and opened the hectic and brilliant restaurant 86.

So how is Ellacure handling the ageing process? Better than me no doubt. Armstrong was such a good operator out on the floor, the place had this very busy but under-control feel, the food thoughtful and safe.

The menu circa 2015 has the same feel to their first menu back in 2008, with a few dishes like the zucchini and halloumi fritters unchanged. It's a safe house for those who want to eat well but don't like change or surprises.

Maybe this sums up Belconnen, thoughtful and safe, but being from here, that thought doesn't really cheer me up much. I yearn for streets filled with wandering young diners spoiled for choice as is Lonsdale Street rather than the dark streets of Bruce without a sporting event on. There's a lived-in feel to Ellacure - the fixtures and fittings haven't changed much either besides the removal of the wall of cutlery. It's not busy tonight, midweek - understandable as it is cold out. A couple of largish tables and a few smaller tables.

The zucchini and haloumi fritters with tomato relish and riata now costs $18 for the trio of tastily fried and crispy orbs. A close to 25 per cent increase over these seven years ($14 previously) seems legit. The property in the surrounding area hasn't quite kept track with the halloumi fritters. So if I went hard at vegetarian entrees back in 2008 I'd be in a slightly better financial position than if I bought an apartment in Bruce.

The other starter, another trio of twice-cooked pork belly cubes with apple and mint salsa ($17) hasn't been around quite as long but is certainly popular. Easily likeable, the double cooking method just seems to work so well with anything that comes off a pig. The belly is flavour packed, you could go another couple no question, it's just that you can get these under the Heston-does-perfect in supermarkets these days, just heat and serve. Maybe you could challenge us a little.

A glass of Italian pinot grigio from Mandaletto ($8.50) does a pretty good job handling the richness of both these entrees. It's not the most distinctive wine around but the rustic feel fits in.

Can't wait for the mains though, a seared barramundi fillet with celeriac gremolata and avo mousse ($29) or the wintry braised beef cheeks – now we are talking – with cauliflower puree and kale ($31) or, depending on how sharey my guests are feeling, the confit duck leg with kipflers, burnt leeks and mushroom jus ($32).

Well, turns out we can wait. We amuse ourselves with seeing how polished the guy behind the bar can get the water bottles, trying to guess the music, nope there's nothing, and really just working out why it's taking a while for mains. We aren't given any hints as to why this is being drawn out, it's not a huge problem, and eventually we get them.

The fish is well put together, cooked appropriately, juicy and handles the accompaniments. The subtle nutty-herby celery flavour of the shredded celeriac is a winning side, has a pleasant crunch and a light mousse of avocado is another textural component that adds up to a fine, generous dish.

The duck, which they still do really well, hasn't changed much in price but you used to get a very generous pair way back when. Again I like the condiments here, crispy fried kipflers are always a treat, buttery and burnt leeks give the dish a pleasing caramel sweetness and then the thick mushroom jus adds body and umami richness. Lastly the very comforting braised beef cheeks are very good - tasty, squishy, tricked up with some crispy, roasted kale leaves and cauliflower puree. It's a wintry dish for sure and, along with the other mains, the kind of dishes that Ellacure does so well; generous, almost homely and still good value.

While I do think it has lost a little of the energy and vibe it had all those years ago, as we all do, and tonight it felt quite slow, which you might put down to planning, Ellacure is still a good option out here in the north-western suburbs; the dishes and wine list mostly carry a comforting mixture of value for money, charm and interest if not a little lacking in excitement.

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Fact file

Address: Corner of Braybrook and Battye Streets, Bruce
Phone: 6251 0990
Website: www.ellacure.com.au
Owners: Andrew Hollands
Chef: Daniel Perrott
Hours: Lunch Tuesday to Sunday; dinner Tuesday to Saturday; breakfast on weekends
Licensed: Yes and BYO corkage $10 per bottle.
Vegetarian: A range of options
To pay: MasterCard, Visa, eftpos, American Express, cash
Wheelchair access: Yes and disabled toilets
Seats: 100 inside and out
Food: ★★☆☆
Wine list: ★★☆☆
Style: ★★★☆
Value for money: ★★★☆
Service: ★★☆☆