Restaurant review: Plaka in Dickson

As restaurant chains slowly take over the world, there's something extra special about a place run by the owner, even more so by a family.

Plaka has been in by the Miras family for almost 40 years, and its closure in Mawson three years ago prompted an outcry. Back in 1972 it is said to have been the first place to serve pizza in Canberra, and grew with the town it served.

Now, after a break, and much urging from the next generation, they have re-opened in Dickson with a classic Greek menu, including a big emphasis on generous fish and seafoodserves and friendly service.

A few months on they are hitting their straps and you can expect a warm welcome to the large and simply decorated space. Couples are out a for a weekday treat, but tables for two are in the minority, as this is food made for sharing. As we sit down there's one feature that really stands out. Unlike many much fancier establishments, the acoustics are good. There is a little Greek background music but it is possible to have a conversation across the table, to hear and be heard. This is not just a nice add-on for old people, it is a basic courtesy to diners. So before any food hits the table Plaka get points for making sure we can share a meal and a conversation.

Platters that combine a good range of offerings across the menu are a great option, especially if you haven't come with the tribe, but we decide to pick and choose instead. Dolmathes ($13.50) are a million miles from the chilly versions you can pick up at the supermarket. These vine leaves are stuffed to bursting with nicely seasoned warm rice and mince, and served with a fresh creamy sauce that really adds to the dish.

Likewise zucchini and feta cakes - kolokithokeftedes ($14) are a cut above. Nicely crisp on the outside with no residual oiliness, they are packed with a good balance of cheese, zucchini and herbs, and lifted with a little pot of tzatsiki on the side. A serve of taramosalata ($6) is clearly house-made as is everything on offer, with all the tang and body that this fish roe dip should have, and with nicely grilled slices of flat bread for scooping.

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Whole lemon sole ($29.50) is lightly flowered and grilled in the classic style, and served with roasted wedges of hand-cut potato. The fish could perhaps have been taken off the heat a tiny bit earlier, but nevertheless comes cleanly off the bone, and is fresh and delicious.

A BBQ seafood plate ($35) is the kind of dish you dream of on long summer evenings. A pile of jumping fresh fish and seafood, skilfully grilled getting that great combination of lovely charry edges and succulence, especially on the baby octopus, with a few chips and lemon wedges for good measure.

Seafood souvlaki ($30) is similarly good, with terrific scallops the stand out, as well as plentiful prawns and a good helping of firm, juicy fish. In a nice touch, the skewer has been extracted for you.

Moving away from the seafood we also try a dish of moussaka ($26), which comes in a huge serve with veg on the side. This dish is often a disappointment with cheap ingredients and careless preparation marring what should be a great standard. Not this time. The body of the dish - lamb and eggplant - is luscious and moist but not greasy, and balanced perfectly with a thick layer of quality béchamel on top. It is a mark of a place if they do the standards well, and Plaka passes in spades with their moussaka.

Dessert seems almost impossible, but the two offerings (both $8) prove too hard to turn down. Baklava is packed with nuts and honey, and served with cream or ice-cream. Greek custard slice - galatoboureko - could fuel a marathon, its creamy cold custard wedged between flaky filo and a lovely drenching of light syrup.

Plaka is a great place to eat, reminding us of the simple pleasures of the Mediterranean diet. Let's hope the new generation of the Miras family takes a firm hold on the family tradition and stick with it.

Plaka

Address: 5/55 Woolley Street
Phone: 6249 8880
Website: plaka.com.au
Owner: Michail and Vivian Miras
Chef: Michail Miras
Hours: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm
Licensed: Yes, BYO
Vegetarian: A good range.
Wheelchair access: Yes and disabled toilets.
To pay: Visa, MasterCard, eftpos,
Seats: 150 inside, 80 outside
★★★☆
Style: ★★★☆
Service: ★★★★
Ambience: ★★★☆
Value for money: ★★★☆

Summary: A friendly and generous Greek family restaurant serving well-made authentic food.