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Restaurant review: Tang Dynasty, Canberra

Natasha Rudra

Owner and chef Heidi Cheng at Tang Dynasty restaurant.
Owner and chef Heidi Cheng at Tang Dynasty restaurant. Jamila Toderas

The dock was empty. A light breeze whispered its near-freezing breath across the dark, still water that was reflecting the rising moon, achingly full and bright. A dark figure dashes across the chilling evening. Is it Jason Bourne, James Bond or maybe just me running late as usual.

This is not a lonely dock in Port Noir nor am I an '80s fiction writer but this scene makes me think of these old novels. It's quiet and not many places are open at the Kingston foreshore. One is open, and answering my question, it's not that busy at all – just a few tables in the bright, colourful dining room that is Tang Dynasty.

Tang Dynasty has been around for not quite as long as its namesake, which was a favourite haunt of politicians in Kingston until it closed some years ago. There isn't any rethink in the styling of the new digs, it's solid Chinese right down to the big glazed tile horses which now sit in the middle of the floor, looking exotic, slightly out of place and in the way.

Steamed chicken with sand ginger.
Steamed chicken with sand ginger.Jamila Toderas
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You get the feeling that at other times, or during yum cha, this place would be pumping.
We get right to it – four plates to share, some green tea, not worrying too much about wine as Tang hasn't either, given the fairly ordinary list. A couple of dishes aren't available but with the huge size of the menu, it's fine, they have plenty of other chicken, pork and duck dishes to try.

The standout was one of these replacement so it was quite fortuitous as we would never have known how good steamed chicken with ginger sand ($28.80) would be. The chicken is served on a salad of lettuce and carrot, certainly not testing the boundaries of presentation, but what is piled up in the middle is pretty good. The chicken is juicily tender and has this gritty, ginger-laced crust on it. It gives the chook a rich and delicious, umami, roast skin like flavour.

Quite intriguing, as is the Nanjing stewed, salt preserved duck ($33.80). Without looking up what Nanjing is, one presumes that it's either a family heritage city of China or, more likely, important to the original Tang Dynasty. Either way, it's great to try duck in a Chinese joint that isn't just roast duck. Not that there's anything wrong with roast or, indeed, Peking duck, it's just good to enjoy the simpler, rustic, slight briny character of this braise.

Nanjing stewed salt preserved duck.
Nanjing stewed salt preserved duck. Jamila Toderas

Another plate is barbecue pork with vegetables ($29.20) – each dish is 20 per cent off as an added incentive. The pork is slightly dried out but the fried green bean garnish gives added layers of flavour along with the sweetish sauce. It's a nice stir-fry by any means. There are some interesting descriptions in the menu. Not sure if, like me, they overuse Google translate but I wonder if "acid bean angular with minced meat" has a better translation. The same goes for "green pepper silver fish" but it's not in stock so we have to go with the more mundane sounding ling fish fillets with salt and pepper ($27.20). This is another solid dish. The fish is coated in a light, crisp batter, pleasantly peppery and definitely salty.

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So after a quick and quiet dinner, we walked back on the dark dock in two minds. Sure, Tang has presumably invested a lot in the move from up the road and time will tell whether this can pay off in queues and many being able to experience some pretty good food. But there was something grand and mysterious about the old Tang Dynasty. This new incarnation is a bit more mundane but the water view is better.

Fact file

Address: Unit 10/81 Giles Street, Kingston Foreshore
Phone: 6232 6997
Website: tangdynasty-au.com
Owner: Ken and Heidi Cheng
Chef: Heidi Cheng
Hours: Lunch: Wednesday-Monday, 11.30am-3pm; dinner: Wednesday-Monday, 5.30pm-10.30pm.
Licensed: Yes and BYO $10 a bottle
Vegetarian: Yes
Wheelchair access: Yes.
To pay: MasterCard, Visa, eftpos, American Express, cash
Seats: 130 inside and out
Food: ★★★☆
Wine: ★
Service: ★★
Value for money: ★★★★
Score: 13/20
Summary: A move into a new space on the Kingston Foreshore has given Tang Dynasty a fresh start with its mixture of Sichuan, Beijing and other regional dishes.

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